Polo Under the Big Sky

Polo “The Cowboy Way,” is played across Montana each summer from Missoula to Billings and Great Falls to Bozeman. Now it might not look like white pants and English saddles, but these western horsemen sure have a lot of fun when they get together to battle over the ball. The game is played in rodeo style arenas with two five player teams. Each player is armed with a mallet, and the object is to knock an inflatable rubber ball through the other team’s goal. All that is needed is a horse, a mallet, the ability to ride, and the love of adventure.

Players use western tack, helmets with face guards, and padded chaps. Competition consists of two teams on the field, a player from each team in each of the five zones. The 15 minute periods are called chukkers— four of which constitutes the game. Teams change goal directions at the beginning of each chukker, and the ball changes possession after a score. A score is made when the ball is whacked through the opposing team’s goal. If a score is made from within the first zone, it counts as one point, if made from the second zone, two points, and if made from the center zone, three points. Each game is run by two referees, who ensure the rules are followed and determine if a score counts for one or more points. In addition, there is one goal spotter at each end of the field who informs the referees when the ball goes through the goalposts. Other game officials consist of a scorekeeper, timekeepers, and an announcer to call the play-by-play.

If you like beautiful horses and things western, and want to see them at their best, bring your lawn chair, pull up some shade, and enjoy the next Montana Cowboy Polo match. For more information call (406) 587-5088.

Reprinted from “The Ultimate Montana Atlas & Travel Encyclopedia”

Montana Football: It's Serious Business

Sold-out crowds, cheering students, pepped-up mascots, painted faces, spirited rivalry. It all boils down to one of the Treasure State’s favorite fall pastimes: Montana football. Although out-of-staters may not realize it, football is serious business in Montana. Fans pack the stadiums in Bozeman and Missoula to watch respectively as the Montana State University “Fighting Bobcats” and the University of Montana “Grizzlies” take on their Big Sky Conference opponents. And they do it with good reason. Both teams are consistently ranked in “The Sports Network’s” list of the Top 25 NCAA Division I-AA teams, and both promise games filled with action and nail-biting excitement.

Waving banners of blue and gold, Montana State University fans have followed the Bobcats loyally through seasons of limited success to the glory days of hard-fought gains. The Bozeman-based team is expected to make an exciting 2005 showing with a predicted third place finish in the pursuit of the championship title. No doubt, this team will play its season to loud strains of young and old singing the MSU Fight Song:

Stand up and cheer
Cheer long and loud for dear Montana
For today we raise
The blue and gold to wave victorious
Our sturdy band now is fighting
And we are sure to win the fray
We’ve got the vim, We’re here to win
For this is dear Montana’s day!

On the state’s western border, University of Montana Griz fans in Missoula are just as passionate about their home team. With the support of their mascot “Monte,” the competitive Griz have either won or shared seven straight Big Sky Conference championships since 1993 with team victories in 1995 and 2001. In 2004, the rock-solid players advanced to the Division I-AA playoffs for the 12th season in a row, and they’re expected to make a similar showing during the 2005 season. Conference coaches and the sports media all predict an impressive second place finish in the chase for the 2005 league championship.

So what do you get when you pit these two teams against each other? Nothing less than one of the most spirited football rivalries in the Rocky Mountain West. Loyal fans drive hours just to catch the action, and the Bobcat-Griz battle is a sold-out favorite long before the teams hit the turf for their season openers. This year, the teams match up in Bozeman for their 105th meeting on November 19th, and those who can’t make it to the game in person will be glued to their TVs for the live televised performance.

Although season tickets for the teams’ scheduled games have now sold out, a handful of single tickets are still available for each home game. But they won’t last long. After all, nothing in Missoula or Bozeman signals the arrival of fall better than hard-core football action under the beautiful Big Sky.

Lewis & Clark Caverns

19 miles west of Three Forks on Montana 2. (406) 287-3541.

Located in the rugged Jefferson River Canyon, Lewis and Clark Caverns features one of the most highly decorated limestone caverns in the Northwest. Naturally air conditioned, these spectacular caves are lined with stalactites, stalagmites, columns, and helictites. The Caverns—which are part of Montana’s first and best known state park—are electrically lighted and safe to visit. Guided cave tours are offered at Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park, including special candle light tours in December. To avoid peak use periods, call the park for suggested visitation and tour times.

Lewis and Clark Caverns are the largest limestone caves in Montana and have fascinated children as well as adults for many years. The labyrinth of these underground caves leads you through narrow passages among stalactites and stalagmites which glitter and drip. Truly a limestone fairyland decorated by nature, these colorful and intriguing formations make for a worthwhile two-hour tour. Also within the park are breathtaking views of the Tobacco Root Mountains and the Jefferson River valley.

Reprinted from “The Ultimate Montana Atlas & Travel Encyclopedia”

Virginia City: Trains, Follies & Players

Once home to outlaws, riches, and a vibrant 1860s entrepreneurial spirit, Virginia City welcomes visitors to discover its colorful past every June through Labor Day. Stroll the streets of the remarkably well-preserved downtown where many of the nineteenth century boomtown buildings still stand at their original location. While you’re there, be sure to check out the town’s famous train, follies, and players, three entertainment values sure to delight both young and old.

First up, the Alder Gulch Short Line escorts passengers from Virginia City to Nevada City on historic Baldwin Steam Engine #12. The 1.25-mile trip includes entertaining narratives from the train’s engineer, and visitors learn fascinating tidbits about the area’s history. The train operates from early June through late August, and an admission fee is charged.

The next venue to hit the spotlight is the Illustrious Virginia City Players. Recognized as Montana’s oldest professional theater, the Players have created a 56-year history of successful performances and crowd-pleasing fun. The Players feature some of America’s finest directors, designers, and actors, and the authentic Victorian plays and side-splitting vaudeville variety shows are showcased in Virginia City’s old Opera House. 2005 season shows include “The Canterville Ghost,” “The Moonstone,” and “Sweeney Todd: The Demon Barber of Fleet Street.” Performances include daily evening shows at 7 PM and weekend matinees at 2 PM from June through Labor Day. Reservations are highly encouraged; call 1-800-829-2969 for tickets.

Catering mostly to adults with its cabaret atmosphere and comedy, satire, and ad-libbing, the Brewery Follies has been a Virginia City fixture since 1984. Each captivating show takes place in Montana’s first brewery, a building dating back to 1863 and German-born brewmeister, H.S. Gilbert. Boisterous laughter is guaranteed as the show’s actors entertain with comedy sketches, musical pieces, and social and political commentary. At the same time, patrons can sample a Montana microbrew or an old-fashioned soda. Performances are provided early June through Labor Day with showtimes at 8 PM Wednesday through Sunday and a bit tamer matinee at 4 PM Monday through Friday. The shows generally sell out, so reservations are highly recommended; call (406) 843-5218.

Floating the Madison

Travel west of Bozeman on Montana Highway 84 (Norris Road) on any given summer day, and you’re likely to see hundreds of people decked out in swimming suits and shorts. What’s going on, you ask? None other than the local tradition of floating the Madison.

Originating in Wyoming, the scenic Madison River crashes and twists its way through Montana, churning up powerful whitewater rapids before stilling into a snail’s pace as it creeps its way to the headwaters of the Missouri River. While the Madison’s upper whitewater rapids receive their fair share of use, it is the lower section beyond Bear Trap Canyon that has become the quintessential summer destination for people of all ages. This lower river section features only a few occasional waves or rocks, and some spots are low enough that people can stand in the middle of the river! Tubes in all shapes and sizes bob in the molasses-slow current while their occupants soak up summer rays and wave to other floaters enjoying the wide river. For those experienced floaters who really know how to have a good time, coolers are held in high esteem and receive their own special tube. Friends, snacks, beverages, water, sun. What could be more fun on a hot Montana summer day?

To experience this Montana tradition for yourself, travel west on MT Highway 84 to the put-in at Warm Springs Access Point. The point can’t be missed; a huge parking lot full of cars waits where the highway departs the Madison River to wind along Warm Springs Creek. After meandering 6 to 7 miles downriver, floaters will reach the take-out point at the Blacks Ford Fishing Access site. Floaters should plan on spending the better part of a day to complete this entire float. For those short on time, a well-marked highway bridge denotes the halfway point where floaters can either put-in or take-out. Rental tubes are available at several sporting goods stores in Bozeman, but plan ahead. On any hot day before Labor Day, tubes are in high demand as everyone rushes to the river to beat the heat!

Bighorn Canyon & Yellowtail Dam

At first glance, time seems to have stopped at Bighorn Canyon. The lake and the steep-sided canyons provide a peaceful setting for those seeking a break from the daily routine. The focus of the area is 71-mile-long Bighorn Lake, created by Yellowtail Dam near Fort Smith. Dedicated in 1968, the dam provides electric power, water for irrigation, flood control, and recreation. Boating, water skiing, fishing, swimming, and sightseeing are main attractions.

While you enjoy the play of light and shadow on rock and water, take time to contemplate the changes that the land and the life upon it have undergone. Time and water are keys to the canyon, where the land has been shaped by moving water since upheavals of the Earth’s crust built the Pryor and Bighorn mountains millions of years ago. For 15 miles upstream from the dam, the lake bisects a massive, arching anticline, exposing fossils that tell of successive times when this land was submerged under a shallow sea, when it was a tropical marsh, and when its conifer forests were inhabited by dinosaurs. Humans arrived here more than 10,000 years ago, living as hunters and gatherers. In modern times people have further altered the land.

Most of Bighorn’s visitors come to enjoy the recreational opportunities the lake offers. Boaters, water skiers, anglers and scuba divers are all attracted here. But the park offers more than just the lake: from the wild flowers in spring and summer to more than 200 species of birds; from the stories of life forms adapting to a harsh environment to the modern search for energy. You can get more information on what the park offers at visitor centers near Lovell, WY, and Fort Smith, MT. Find your own place of solitude to relax and to enjoy the diversity and timelessness of this uncommon canyon water land.

A Challenging Land
In North America people have traveled and made their living along rivers and streams for more than 40,000 years. But the Bighorn River was too treacherous and too steep-walled. People here lived near the Bighorn but avoided navigating it—until the dam tamed the river.

The broken land here also challenged the ingenuity of early residents, forcing them to devise unusual strategies of survival. More than 10,000 years ago, Indian hunters drove herds of game into land traps. These Indians lived simply, gathering wild roots and seeds to balance and supplement their meat diet. They made clothes of skins, baskets and sandals of plant fibers, and tools of stone, bone, and wood. The many caves of the Bighorn area provided seasonal shelters and storage areas for the Indians, as well as for early traders and trappers.

Absaroke means “People of the largebeaked bird,” in the Siouan language of the Crow. Their reservation surrounds most of Bighorn Canyon. Originally a farming people, the Crow split off from the Hidatsa tribe more than 200 years ago. They became a renowned hunting people, described by one of the Lewis and Clark Expedition as “the finest horsemen in the world.”

After 1800, explorers, traders, and trappers found their way up the Bighorn River. Charles Larocque met the Crow at the mouth of the Bighorn in 1805; Captain William Clark traveled through a year later. Jim Bridger claimed he had floated through the canyon on a raft. Later fur traders packed their goods overland on the Bad Pass Trail, avoiding the river’s dangers.

During the Civil War the Bozeman Trail led to mines in western Montana by crossing the Bighorn River. Open from 1864 to 1868, the trail was bitterly opposed by Sioux and Cheyenne; the Crow were neutral. The Federal Government closed the trail in 1868 after the Fort Laramie Treaty. Fort C.F. Smith, now on private land, guarded the trail as an outpost. A stone monument commemorates the Hayfield Fight, a desperate but successful defense against Sioux and Cheyenne warriors. In this skirmish a party of soldiers and civilian haycutters, working three miles north of Fort C.F. Smith, fought for eight hours until rescued by the fort’s troops on August 1, 1867.

After the Civil War, cattle ranching became a way of life. Among the huge open-range cattle ranches was the Mason-Lovell (the ML); some of those buildings remain. Dude ranching, reflected in the remains of Hillsboro, was popular in the early 1900s. The Crow made the transition from huntergatherers to ranchers in one generation. In 1904, after 12 years of labor, they completed an irrigation system and opened 35,000 acres of land to irrigated farming. Water was diverted into the Bighorn Canal by a 416-foot diversion dam, moving 720 cubic feet of water per second. Near Afterbay Campground is Bighorn Canal Headgate, remains of this human response to the challenge of the land.

Congress established Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area in 1966 as part of the National Park System to provide enjoyment for visitors today and to protect the park for future generations.

Bighorn Canyon Visitor Center
The solar-heated visitor center near Lovell, WY., symbolizes the energy-conscious concerns of the National Park Service and of modern Americans. The heating is accomplished by storing heat from the sun in a rock bin, then blowing hot air through the building. The Yellowtail Dam Visitor Center, in the park, is two miles past the community of Fort Smith. It is approachable from the north by car.

Bighorn Wildlife
The wildlife of the Bighorn Canyon country is as varied as the land, which can be divided into four climate or vegetative zones. In the south is desert shrub land inhabited by wild horses, snakes, and small rodents. Midway is juniper woodland with coyotes, deer, bighorn sheep, beaver, wood rats, and porcupine. Along the flanks of the canyon is pine and fir woodland with mountain lions, bear, elk, and mule deer. In the north is shortgrass prairie, once home to herds of buffalo. Many of the smaller animals, such as cottontails, skunks, coyotes, and rattlesnakes, are seen frequently throughout the park. More than 200 species of birds, including many kinds of water fowl, have been seen here. Each plant and animal species is adapted to the particular conditions of temperature, moisture, and landform within one or more of the park’s four primary zones.

Yellowtail Dam
The dam is named in honor of Robert Yellowtail, former Crow tribal chairman and reservation superintendent. The dam creates one of the largest reservoirs on the Missouri River tributary system. This arch type dam is 525 feet high.

Yellowtail Wildlife Habitat Management Area
Riparian, cottonwood forest, shrub land, and wetlands provide habitat for whitetail deer, bald eagles, pelicans, heron, water fowl, wild turkeys, and other species. The area is managed by the Wyoming Game and Fish Department through agreements with the National Park Service, Bureau of Land Management, and Bureau of Reclamation.

Ranch Sites Mason-Lovell Ranch: A.L. Mason and H.C Lovell built cattle ranch headquarters here in 1883. Cattle roamed the Bighorn Basin in a classic open-range operation.

Hillsboro: A one mile round trip trail takes you to the site of Grosvenor William Barry’s Cedarvale Guest Ranch and the 1915 to 1945 Hillsboro post office.

Lockhart: Caroline Lockhart, a reporter, editor, and author, began ranching at age 56. The well preserved buildings give a feel for ranch life; one mile roundup.

Ewing-Snell: This site was in use for nearly 100 years.

Bad Pass Trail
American Indians camped along this trail 10,000 years ago, and in prehistoric and historic times Shoshone used it to get to the buffalo plains. Early trappers and traders used it to avoid the dangers of the Bighorn River. You can see rock calms left along the route between Devil Canyon Overlook and Barry’s Landing. Before the arrival of the horse, life changed little here for thousands of years. Small family groups wintered in caves near the canyon bottoms. In early spring they moved out of the canyon bottoms in search of plants and small animals, and in summer they moved to the highlands in search of game and summer maturing plants. Large groups gathered in fall for a communal bison hunt.

Devil Canyon Overlook
Here the canyon crosscuts the gray limestone of the Devil Canyon Anticline, a 1,000-foot high segment of the fault blocks that make up the Pryor Mountains.

What to See and Do
A film at Bighorn Canyon Visitor Center highlights park activities. Exhibits explain the canyon’s history and natural features.

Boating enthusiasts will find a marina, snack bar, camp store (gas and oil), and boat ramp at Horseshoe Bend and OkABeh. Ramps are also at Afterbay Dam and Barry’s Landing. All boaters should sign registration sheets at the ramps when entering and leaving the lake. If mechanical problems develop while you are on the lake, stay with your boat; hail other boaters and ask them to notify a ranger. Carry both day and night signaling devices. Do not try to climb the lake’s steep canyon walls.

Swimmers are encouraged to use the lifeguarded areas at Horseshoe Bend and Ok-ABeh.

Camping is restricted to designated sites in developed areas. It is also allowed in the backcountry and below the highwater mark along Bighorn Lake. Fire restrictions during periods of high fire danger may close certain areas to camping. Check with a ranger for the restrictions on fires or backcountry camping.

Hiking is available in the national recreation area and in nearby forests. Ask at the visitor centers for more information.

Hunting is allowed in designated areas in accordance with state laws. Trapping is prohibited. Fishing in Montana or Wyoming requires the appropriate state fishing license. Fine game fish, such as brown and rainbow trout, sauger, ling, and perch, abound. The most popular game fish, a gourmet’s delight, is the walleye. Winter ice fishing around Horseshoe Bend is good. The Bighorn River provides excellent brown and rainbow trout fishing.

Regulations and Safety: Firearms are prohibited in developed areas and areas of concentrated public use, unless they are unloaded and cased. Pets must be on a leash in developed areas and in areas of concentrated public use. Trash and waste disposals into area waters are prohibited; all vessels must have a waste receptacle on board. Carry a first-aid kit as a precaution against poisonous snake bites. All plants, animals, natural and cultural features, and archeological sites are protected by federal law. Collecting is prohibited.

Reprinted from National Park Service brochure and “The Ultimate Montana Atlas & Travel Encyclopedia”

Hiking Bighorn Canyon

With its steep-sided canyons, isolated nature, juniper forests, and amazing area views, Bighorn Canyon is a hiker’s dream come true. Hikers should always wear sturdy shoes and pack along plenty of sunscreen and water; the area is known for its hot summer days that leave hikers prone to sunburns and dehydration. Although the area is lined with trails, the following are three of the most popular canyon hikes.

State Line Trail
Description: Easy to Moderate, 1 Mile Round Trip
Just north of the Montana State line, you will find a cairn marking the beginning of this trail. Follow the cairns along an old road that leads to the rim of the canyon. You may then follow the canyon rim for several hundred feet. This trail leads through juniper forest and limestone plateaus to unique views of the canyon.

Sullivan’s Knob Trail
Description: Easy to Moderate, 1 Mile Round Trip
Roughly 1 mile north of Devil’s Canyon Overlook, you will find a turnout around a geological formation known as Sullivan’s knob. Turn into the parking lot at Sullivan’s knob. Follow the cairns and the trail to the right of the hill directly in front of you (East). Follow the cairns to the canyon rim. From there it's possible to see the north side of Devil’s Canyon Overlook.

Om-Ne-A Trail
This is a rim-top trail that provides some awesome views of the magnificent Bighorn Canyon. The 3-mile trail goes from Yellowtail Dam to Ok-A-Beh marina. The trail starts at Yellowtail Dam and is steep for the first quarter mile.

Partially reprinted from “The Ultimate Montana Atlas & Travel Encyclopedia”

Chief Plenty Coups State Park

1 mile west of Pryor on county road. (406) 252-1289

The fascinating and honorable life of Chief Plenty Coups is remembered at this location. He was the respected tribal chief of the Crow people from 1904-1932 and was the tribe’s most revered leader; loved by his people, as well as respected by white leaders. With many achievements during his leadership, he was the most respected chief the Crows would ever have and was not replaced after his death.

Chief Plenty Coups was a brave warrior and leader, enforcing his beliefs that education was the way to deal with the white man. He adapted to the changing times, replacing his tepee for a two-story cabin by the Pryor Mountain Range, where he cultivated the land. This was a show of peace to the white man, and he was a great mediator, explaining the importance of peace between all people.

After frequent trips to Washington D.C., in 1924 he was asked to represent American Indians in the dedication of the tomb of the unknown soldier at Arlington National Cemetery. Here, Plenty Coups gave an unforgettable short speech and prayer for peace.

Chief Plenty Coups donated his land and home to be used by all people of all races in friendship. At his death in 1932, the land became Chief Plenty Coups State Park and consists of a 40-acre homestead with a Crow Indian Museum, the Chief’s home and store, his grave, and a gift shop.

The Park is open from May 1 through September 30, 8 AM to 8 PM. The visitor center hours are 10 AM to 5 PM. A fee is charged.

Reprinted from “The Ultimate Montana Atlas & Travel Encyclopedia”