Montana Nuggets

April 10, 2007 Montana Nuggets Newsletter

2007-04-12T12:54:00.000-06:00

Enjoy the diverse stories in this issue of our newsletter. And you can get it directly by signing up on our website: www.ultimatemontana.com

In This Issue:
• Greycliff Prairie Dog State Park
• 5 Things You Might Not Know About Lewis and Clark
• On This Day… April 3, 1996
• 1790s History Mystery Stones

Greycliff Prairie Dog Park
By John and Durrae Johanek

Springtime in Montana, the shoulder season, the time of year when we walk around in shorts and T-shirts one day and shovel 8 inches of snow the next. In a spring blizzard we stubbornly put out patio furniture on our decks, because we just know we’ll be enjoying it tomorrow. If cabin fever has you looking for signs of life, it’s time to head to Greycliff Prairie Dog Town State Park.

Its denizens, black-tailed prairie dogs, also are welcoming spring, looking for the first green shoots of vegetation to push up through the snow. This rodent reservation is an actual “town” complete with its own exit off the interstate a few miles east of Big Timber. It has neighborhoods, a social structure, and even crime.
Although there are many of these towns across central and eastern Montana, Greycliff has the most accessible and easily viewed residents. Pull up to an active mound, and the dogs will disappear, but within a few minutes curiosity wins out. The black-tailed prairie dog (Cynomys ludovicianus) is native and unique to North America and colonizes primarily grazing lands from Canada to the Southwest.
So many other animals depend on prairie dogs for food and shelter that if the dogs were to disappear it would be devastating to eagles, hawks, foxes, and black-footed ferrets. They’d also be missed by burrowing owls, badgers, and rattlesnakes, who frequently move into abandoned burrows. The mountain plover uses the town’s gravelly habitat for nesting.
Each burrow is surrounded by a mound of dirt that serves as a handy lookout against danger. A soaring golden eagle, for example, will cause the “watch dog” to go into action: he twitches his tail and signals the others with a series of high-pitched “barks,” earning the species its name. The rules apply to locals as well: no dog may stray into another’s territory or it will be chased away.
Greycliff exists because of Livingston wildlife photographer Edward Boehm, who was instrumental in preserving the site when the interstate was built. Assisting was The Nature Conservancy, the Montana Department of Highways, and Fish, Wildlife & Parks. As at any of Montana’s state parks, signs warn you to keep your pets on a leash, which is especially important here because prairie dogs carry fleas, which in turn transmit plague (not likely a problem, but it nearly wiped out a colony at the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge). Besides, loose dogs harass wildlife and ruin the experience for others. Please obey the signs that ask you to not feed the prairie dogs! No matter how cute or hungry they appear, breadcrumbs or your well-meaning popcorn wreaks havoc with their digestive system and habituates them to humans, making them less wild. Your good intentions could kill them, and lord knows they’ve already got their hands full with interstate traffic.

5 Things You Might Not Know About Lewis and Clark

1. What was the total cost of the entire Lewis and Clark expedition?
$38,000.

2. How long did it take Lewis and Clark to portage the eighteen miles around the five waterfalls of Great Falls?
Thirty-two days.

3. How much did Lewis earn for his efforts during the trip?
Forty dollars per month. Clark earned $25 per month; the privates earned $5 per month, and Sacajawea and York earned nothing.

4. Approximately how old was Sacajawea when she and her infant son joined the Lewis and Clark party?
Fifteen or sixteen.

5. How many years after the Lewis and Clark expedition ended did it take William Clark to receive the promotion Lewis promised him, from lieutenant to captain?
195 years. It was awarded by President Bill Clinton.

From “Montana Trivia” by Janet Spencer, published by Riverbend Publishing
$10 + $2 S & H Call toll free 866-787-2363
Montana Quizzes available free to any publication, contact Janet@TriviaQueen.com

On This Day…April 3, 1996
Theodore Kaczynski, the so-called Unabomber, is arrested by the FBI at his cabin outside of Lincoln, Montana. Kaczynski is charged with crafting and planting at least 16 mail bombs over 18 years, killing 3 people and injuring more than 20. Kaczynski is described as a hermit by some Lincoln locals, “a nice guy.” With the FBI came the media, swarming into Montana and questioning many in the area.

Kaczynski was a math genius with academic papers published and considered to be on tenure-track, before leaving the academic world. His madness, genius, trial, guilt and innocence are still debated, with books published about him; references made to his life in works on the brain and psychology; and websites dedicated to his life, writings and discussions of his case.

1790s History Mystery Stones

In 1956, four miles northeast of Wibaux, a farmer noticed some curious stones he was clearing from his fields. The stones had carved in them the names of Dean, Mead, Neil, Pike and Watson, and included a minister and two women. All of the stones have two crosses engraved on them also say “1791, June 18, killed in the raid”. James Mead’s stone states he was killed in 1790, and Rev. Neil’s has four crosses on it. Why the mystery? Who were these people and what were they doing here years before Lewis & Clark explored the area? Scholars have attempted to solve the mystery, but haven’t found anything conclusive. None of the names were found in the records of the Hudson Bay Company or in any of the Canadian fur companies during that period. Were they even trappers? What explanation is their for the women and the minister? And who survived to carve the stones?

Going Dutch In Churchill

2007-03-02T10:42:00.000-07:00

Here's the recent feature article in our Montana Nuggets Newsletter...

Going Dutch In Churchill
By John and Durrae Johanek, Authors of Montana Folks

In 1980 when Cornelia Flikkema closed her Churchill, Montana, coffee shop known for its Dutch specialties, the local school asked her to host a fundraising supper. She optimistically prepared food for 400 people—600 showed up. Today, you’ll likely stand in line with at least a thousand other dinner guests at the Manhattan Christian School each March. This is the annual Dutch Dinner—the social event of the year in this predominantly Dutch town about 20 miles west of Bozeman.

Although the last Friday in March in snowy Montana seems like a strange time to host a major event, in farming towns like Churchill there’s good reason. It’s near the beginning of the planting season in prime potato country—any later and there would be no volunteers. And it’s the volunteers who make the dinner a success by donating time and the majority of the food. Even the local retirement home gets into the act by peeling the tons of potatoes that go into stamppot—the Dutch delicacy that’s the heart of the feast.

One might think that for a dinner party this size you’d need a dining room the size of a gymnasium, and that’s exactly where it’s held. The meal is served cafeteria style at four stations, each offering a different specialty. The main course, stamppot, is four globs of mashed potatoes flavored with kale, rutabaga, cabbage, and carrots. But to do it up right, you need to douse your spud piles with a ladle full of bacon fat and bits from the nearby crockpots.

Is that exploding arteries you hear? It’s tough to tell over the thunder of wooden shoes pounding the hardwood stage as the school’s klompen dancers perform in full Dutch attire. One year there were no klompen dancers—yikes—but public outcry brought them back.

Before the butter-drenched klont settles, loosen your belt and waddle over to the dessert table if you dare. Desserts are à la carte and with good reason—you won’t be able to stop at just one. Take a seat on the bleachers, enjoy the crowd, and notice how few people are actually overweight.

In more than 25 years the menu hasn’t changed, but nobody is complaining. The supper still draws folks from throughout Montana plus quite a few out-of-staters. Still, the organizers sometimes wonder if the supper will remain popular. Will attendance slump? Will people get tired of the same menu? Yeah, right—like the thought of snert doesn’t make you salivate.

Directions: South of Interstate 90 at the Manhattan exit, in Churchill.

For more information: 406-282-7261; last Friday of March; 4:00 to 7:30 p.m.

The Johaneks’ second book Montana Folks is available at Amazon.com.

Montana History: Kid Curry and The Wild Bunch

2007-02-14T15:22:00.000-07:00

I hope you enjoy this "Wild West" part of Montana's past....

For some 10 to 15 years the four Curry brothers, Henry, John, Loney and Harvey (The Kid) made the Little Rockies their home and headquarters. Their real name was Logan and the fact that they came to Montana under an assumed name suggests that their past was not pristine before they arrived here in the 1890s. The brothers, along with Harry Longabaugh (The Sundance Kid) and Butch Cassidy made up the infamous “Wild Bunch.”

Bill Kellerman was an orphan, befriended and adopted by the colorful Pike Landusky. Kellerman recalls, “A Christmas dance was being held in Landusky. That night the Curry Gang shot up the town, including the dance hall. They shot the piano to splinters, broke guitars over the musicians’ heads and generally wrecked the place. The Curry boys were pretty active around the old mining camp the first few months after I arrived. One time, three or four of them rode into a pool hall and played a game on horseback. One of the horses broke through the floor and horse and rider dropped into a dirt cellar. They were always coming into town, getting liquored up and shooting up the camp.”

The Currys had a special beef with Pike Landusky. At one time, the Currys and Landusky were neighbors and got along fine for several years. But somewhere along the line a feud started between them over Loney Curry’s courtship of Landusky’s daughter. Pike had a chance to vent his anger one day when two of the brothers John and Harvey “The Kid” were arrested for altering a cattle brand. Pike was the deputy sheriff and reportedly roughed them up pretty good while they were incarcerated. The brothers were released for lack of evidence and swore revenge on Pike.

Christmas of 1894 Pike threw a pretty good party for the town. He had four dozen quarts of Baltimore select oysters shipped in for the celebration. Word got out that Landusky was throwing a grand party. As reported in the Great Falls Tribune, “From that time until the big day the camp was all feverish activity. The big time was all the topic of conversation and fully a barrel of bourbon was licked up in considering details and devising new features. Word had gone over all that sparsely settled country that Landusky was entertaining; they all heard it and they all came.… They drifted in from the badlands 60 miles away, from grassy valleys in the foothills, from the alkali flats farther out, from remote places in the river breaks and from the gulches of far reaches of the mountains. They came in all the vehicles that were known to the time and they brought food enough to feed the multitude in the wilderness, those who didn’t get a break on the loaves and fishes.”

About 100 people showed up for the party. They danced, drank, and ate nonstop for two days and nights. But throughout the celebration there was a tenseness—a feeling that something might explode between the Currys and Landusky. On the morning of December 27th Pike made his usual mid-morning visit to Jew Jake’s saloon. Within minutes of his arrival, Kid Curry entered the saloon. He slapped Landusky on the shoulder, and when Landusky turned around his jaw received a load of knuckles. Onlookers ordered the patrons of the saloon at gunpoint not to interfere. The Kid’s blow knocked Landusky to the floor and the Kid beat him relentlessly to a bloody pulp. When he was certain Landusky was finished, he got up only to see Pike rise and draw his gun. According to the Great Falls Tribune, “It was one of the new fangled automatics that had just come out at that time, and either Pike didn’t know how to use it or it went wrong. … Anyway, it didn’t work. The Kid found himself in a moment, drew his .44 and it was all over. He shot Pike twice in the head—and missed the third time—and Pike battled no more.”

The Curry Gang rode out of town after the killing and hid on the ranch they had established south of the mountains. The ranch was strategically located for a quick get-away and was a good headquarters for the meetings of the Wild Bunch. Sheriff’s officers were sent from Fort Benton and scoured the country following up every lead in search of the Currys.

Sometime towards the spring of 1895 Kellerman recalls walking to the Curry ranch. The Kid, Longabaugh and the cook greeted him cordially and invited him in. The Kid was watching a team and buckboard headed towards the ranch through a powerful field glass. He figured it was the “law” and he and Longabaugh slipped out the back door, mounted their horses and headed for the Missouri River. Kellerman says “I was fooling with the Currys’ pet gopher when the buckboard stopped at the ranch. A man wearing a star stepped down and asked me if anyone was at home. I said ‘no’—figured the less I said the better off I’d be. I’d learned a lot in the short time I had been in Montana.”

John Curry was involved in a shooting episode at the Jim Winters ranch south of the mountains that not only resulted in his death, but, ultimately, the death of Jim Winters. Dan Tressler and his wife had separated and John Curry, whom she planned to marry, took her to a friend’s ranch on the Missouri River. Tressler sold the ranch to Jim Winters and his half-brother Abram Gill. Mrs. Tressler didn’t like the fact that she’d been cut out of the deal and persuaded John Curry to retrieve the ranch for her. Curry sent Winters a note to vacate within a certain period or face the consequences. Winters knew what the consequences would be and kept a loaded rifle behind the door. When the deadline arrived Winters saw Curry approaching the place on horseback. A few shots later, John Curry lay dead. Six months later, Jim Winters took two shots to the stomach while walking to his outhouse. Several agonizing hours later he was dead.

Later, Abram Gill sold the ranch for $10,000 to the Coburn Cattle Company. He left with a down payment check of $2,000 in hand. He and his white horse vanished somewhere between the ranch and Lundusky. No trace of him was ever found.

The robbery of the Great Northern “Flyer” at Exeter Creek was probably the most famous escapade of Kid Curry. By now his brothers were dead. John killed by Jim Winters, Loney killed by lawmen, and Henry dead from tuberculosis. This was the last robbery credited to the Wild Bunch. The holdup was believed to have been planned by Curry and Butch Cassidy.

On July 3, 1901, the “Flyer” stopped for water at Malta. Kid Curry and another accomplice boarded the train. After the train was underway, they made their way to the engine and stuck a gun in the engineer's back ordering him to stop the train. They ordered the fireman to open the express car where they proceeded to blow the safe and a load $40,000 in currency and cash into a sack. The money was never recovered and historians differ on what ultimately happened to the Kid.•

*Remember, you can view lots more Montana information at http://www.ultimatemontana.com

Ghosts of the Past

2005-10-14T16:24:00.000-06:00

October may traditionally be the season of ghosts, but Montana’s landscape is lined with ghosts year-round. Echoes of old pioneer dreams, mining failures and successes, and vigilante justice permeate the state as outcroppings of buildings once home to bustling workers and families are scattered across the mountains and plains. Although some of Montana’s earliest towns have withered into nothing with the hands of time, many of the Treasure State’s earliest settlements remain standing, abandoned, a visual reminder of the state’s hearty ancestors. The following are just a smattering of the hundreds of ghost towns found throughout Montana.

Wickes Ghost Camp
I-15, 20 miles south of Helena.

Remains of huge smelters and refineries are all that are left in the ghost town of Wickes. Once a thriving mining town that produced $50,000,000 in gold and silver before operations ceased in the early 1890s. Folks continued to live there for a number of years, until most of the town was destroyed by fire. The road to Wickes is easily traveled by car. Also nearby is the Alta Mine and the Corbin camp.

Diamond City
Diamond City, which emerged in Confederate Gulch on the east side of present day Canyon Ferry Lake, was the hub of the area’s gold activity and became one of Montana Territory’s most populated early communities. Its population once reached more than 10,000 but dwindled to 255 by 1870. Eventually it slid into obscurity leaving barely a trace. Placer gold, remarkable for its incredible wealth, was discovered in the area by two former Confederate soldiers. The gravels here were among the richest washed anywhere in the world. Single pans were said to contain more than $1,000 of gold at a time when gold’s worth was $20 an ounce. Most remarkable was that these gravels existed within only a two-acre area which by its end yielded over $16 million (over two and a half tons) of gold in 1860s standards of money. Weekend prospectors and some commercial placer miners still work the same areas in hopes of hitting paydirt.

Just like the ghost towns created by the gold rush era, evidence of much earlier activities can be found at various locations throughout the area. Ancient tepee rings, campsites, underground ovens, arrow heads and spear heads have been found throughout the region, some of which have been calculated to be 10,000 years old. A collection of such artifacts is displayed at the Broadwater County Museum in Townsend.

Silver Bow
15 miles south of Butte on Rte. 2

Also known as Highland City, many of the several hundred miners cabins that were built still exist near the graveyard. The city once had a fierce reputation for wild gun play and rich with gold during its boom years between 1865 and 1875. The site is accessible on a good Forest Service logging road.

Nevada City
A celebrated ghost town, Nevada City recreates the mining era so authentically that it has been filmed in western movies such as Little Big Man and Return to Lonesome Dove. Buildings include five streets of shops, homes, a schoolhouse, and Chinatown. The most popular exhibition is the Music Hall which contains one of the world’s largest collections of mechanical music machines.

Bearmouth Ghost Town
I-90 between Clinton and Drummond

Bearmouth was a stopover point for stage coaches and depended on the survival of other towns that were mining camps. Coaches traveled old Mullan Road between Fort Benton, Montana and Walla Walla, Washington. When the nearby mining camps of Garnet and Beartown died, so did Bearmouth. The beautiful Inn that provided accommodations for travelers still stands. Also nearby is the ghost camp of Coloma, that lasted until the 1930s and a few other standing buildings.

Partially reprinted from the Ultimate Montana Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia

The Beauty of Montana

2005-10-09T16:22:00.000-06:00

Vibrant shades of red, orange, and yellow line the Montana landscape each fall, making it one of the prettiest (and least crowded!) times to visit the Treasure State. Whether you’re just passing through, taking a hunting trip to Montana’s backcountry, or planning one last outdoor adventure before the snow flies, don’t leave home without The Ultimate Montana Travel Atlas and Encyclopedia. This best-selling book offers more information than dozens of other guidebooks combined and has received rave reviews from travelers across the U.S. and Europe! Not just a reference guide to big-name attractions, this must-have guidebook also uncovers some of the hidden treasures that make Montana so special. Learn about scenic drives, historical sites, attractions, and recreation while gaining access to hundreds of hotels, restaurants, outfitters, and more. Join the ranks of early explorers, and discover the beauty of the Treasure State with The Ultimate Montana Travel Atlas and Encyclopedia!

The Gauntlet

2005-10-05T16:22:00.000-06:00

What do you get when you combine 400 large straw bales weighing more than 160 tons, one scary hay monster called Marvin, and a peaceful Montana farm setting? Nothing less than The Gauntlet. Created in 2003, The Gauntlet is a winding hay maze located a few miles from Bozeman at the Lazy B Farm. The maze caters to both children and adults with its towering stacks of hay, large and small tunnels, and clues that maze-goers search for in an attempt to solve a weekly riddle. The riddle focuses on a particular theme each year, with the 2005 theme focused upon “The Chronicles of Narnia.”

In addition to the maze itself, the Gauntlet offers several special events during its operation from September through October. Hayrides, pumpkin picking, and a Chronicles of Narnia Dress Up Night add to the autumn fun. Quickly becoming a favorite fall tradition in southwestern Montana, the Gauntlet is open to the public for a small admission fee on Friday and Saturday evenings, with private group reservations available during the week. Don’t forget to watch out for Marvin the hay monster. He may be lurking right around the next corner!

HatchFest: Hollywood Meets Montana

2005-10-01T16:21:00.000-06:00

Think Hollywood is just for California? Think again. Since 2004, Montana has welcomed the international and American film community with open arms. Held annually in early October, HatchFest and a myriad of Hollywood stars descend upon Bozeman for five days of audio, visual, arts, and mentorship appreciation. The festival was created to provide inspiration, education, recognition, and mentorship to the next generation of creative innovators.

To achieve this mission, a celebrity jury selects the world’s ten most talented student filmmakers, flies them to Bozeman, and gives them the chance to work closely with fifty mentors representing all facets of the film, music, and art industry. As an added bonus, these promising filmmakers have their works showcased to the public in Bozeman’s historic Ellen Theater, providing much-deserved recognition and exposure. The festival includes live music performances, VIP parties, screening parties, education panels, and more, with everything culminating at the Hatch Awards. This ceremony, which is quickly gaining recognition around the world, hands out the film award for the “Outstanding Groundbreaker,” the “Gibson Guitar New Musician Award,” and cash prizes.

Although the ten student filmmakers invited to showcase their works at HatchFest may be relatively unknown in the mass media circle, they are held as peers by their celebrity mentors. This year’s celebrity guests include Peter Fonda, Johnny Depp, Kevin Bacon, Jeff Bridges, Liam Neeson, Jackson Browne, and more.

Don’t miss your opportunity to catch the best of tomorrow’s film producers! Tickets are limited. For more information, visit www.hatchfest.com.

Helena: Standing up for Montana

2005-09-27T15:31:00.000-06:00

1301 6th Ave., Helena. (406) 444-4789

A symbol of Montana’s statehood, lively past, and enduring future, the state capital rests against the hills of Helena with a commanding panoramic view of the Helena Valley. Explorers Meriwether Lewis and William Clark called this area “Prickly Pear Valley” when they traversed it in 1805. A century of exploration, trapping, prospecting, mining, settlement and development occurred in what became Montana, before the construction of a State Capital was achieved.

The mining camp of Last Chance Gulch was born with the discovery of placer gold by the “Four Georgians” in 1864. The fledgling camp soon changed to Helena. Surprisingly, the community did not die when the gold ran out because the merchants turned it into a banking and supply center. By 1875, Helena had wrested the Montana Territorial capital from Virginia City.

When Montana joined the Union in 1889, a battle for the permanent state capital ensued. In 1894 Helena (backed by Copper King William A. Clark) opposed Anaconda (supported by Copper King Marcus Daly) for this honor. Helena’s victory assured it a state capitol building, yet the National Crash of 1893 initially delayed construction.

Finally, optimism about the state’s future led the 1895 legislature to enact laws authorizing a $1million Capital, its design to be chosen in a nationwide architectural competition. Cash prizes were awarded and a design selected before funding problems were understood to be insurmountable. To make matters worse, scandal erupted when it was discovered that the Capital commissioners themselves planned to defraud the state of substantial portions of the building’s cost. Investigations were conducted in time to prevent the graft, replace the commissioners, and begin anew.

The 1897 legislature then authorized a more modest statehouse. The completed, furnished building, located on its donated parcel of land, cost approximately $485,000—less than one-half the price of the abandoned design. In 1898 Charles Emlen Bell and John Hackett Kent of Council Bluffs, Iowa, were selected as the Capital architects, on the condition that they would relocate to Helena to fulfill a legislative provision requiring selection of a Montana architect. Although denounced by the state’s resident architects, the selection proved to be a fortunate one, resulting in a handsome design that was promptly realized. After a festive corner stone-laying ceremony on Independence Day, 1899, Bell and Kent’s “Greek Ionic” neo classical Capital was constructed, faced in sandstone from a Columbus, Montana Quarry. The building was dedicated with much appreciative fanfare on July 4, 1902.

After its first decade, the Capital was enlarged (1909-1912) to accommodate the growing executive, legislative, and judicial branches of government. East-and West-wing additions were designed by New York architect Frank M. Andrews in association with Montanans John G. Link and Charles S. Haire. The much-debated selection of stone for facing the wings required a special session of the legislature, which chose Jefferson County granite. A good match for the Columbus sandstone used in the original building, the granite held the added advantage of durability. The State Capital is a structure with several historical dimensions. Interwoven with Montana’s development as a state, the building’s origins recall people and practices from another age. These turn-of-the-century Montanans, conscious of their place in the progression of time, chose architecture and art that described a remote classical past as well as the passing era of the frontier. Yet they focused optimistically on the future as well. Today the Capital is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and continues to be associated with events significant to the citizens and government
of Montana. (Excerpted from “Montana’s Capital Building”, a publication of the Montana Historical Society)

Note: A two-year renovation project of Capital was completed in early 2001. The building was restored to its original elegant charm. Years ago many of the building’s treasures were removed as attempts were made to earthquake-proof the structure. Many of those items had been purchased by Charles Bovey of Nevada and Virginia City fame. The items were in storage and once again became property of the state and were reinstalled during the project. Items that couldn’t be salvaged were replicated. The entire restoration was done at a cost of $26 million. Tours of the Capital are hourly weekdays from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. and weekends noon to 4 p.m. There is no charge for tours which are led by members of the Montana Historical Society.

Reprinted from “The Ultimate Montana Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia”

Montana Gift Corral

2005-09-25T15:33:00.000-06:00

Looking to bring a symbol of Montana into your home? Searching for that perfect western gift or souvenir? Then don’t miss the huge selection of quality crafted items at the Montana Gift Corral. The Montana Gift Corral prides itself on offering sensational products by talented and creative artists with store locations in Bozeman and at Gallatin Field Airport. Can’t make it to Montana? The Montana Gift Corral offers a full selection of their signature products online. Visitors will find handmade bath and body products, Moose Drool novelty items, whimsicial bear and moose figurines, stuffed animals, wood carvings, Christmas ornaments reflecting the Montana spirit, clothing, antler art, handcrafted jewelry, gourmet foods (including Montana’s famed huckleberry products!), Montana silversmith items, household decorator items ranging from lamps to rustic furniture to picture frames, and much, much more!

Moose Drool: A Montana Legend

2005-09-22T15:25:00.000-06:00

Moose Drool - it’s a legend emblazoned in the hearts and minds of Montana residents (if you don’t believe us, check out our “Montana Gift Corral” article to see for yourself). Refreshing, adaptable, and with a name like Moose Drool, unforgettable. Now before you start questioning the sanity of folks living in the Treasure State, keep in mind that Moose Drool really has nothing to do with slobbery spit or the prehistoric looking creature that grazes on willows adorning Montana’s riverbanks. No, dear readers, Moose Drool has nothing to do with drool at all. What it does possess, though, leaves individuals longing for more.

Moose Drool originated with the Big Sky Brewing Company and has achieved such acclaim that it is now the best selling beer brewed in Montana. Pale, caramel, chocolate, and whole black malts combine to create a chocolate brown brewery favorite with an unforgettable creamy texture. Sold throughout the Pacific Northwest, Rocky Mountain region, and some midwestern states, Moose Drool is the stuff of happy hour get-togethers, summer barbeques, autumn hunting excursions, and quiet evenings at home.

But Moose Drool’s fame isn’t just limited to this popular Montana ale. Boasting a name that symbolizes one of the Rocky Mountain’s most magnificent creatures, Moose Drool has adapted itself to a variety of other purposes. Mixes for beer bread, sourdough beer bread, biscuits, and fish beer batter all utilize Moose Drool, and a signature barbeque sauce combines the brown ale with complex huckleberry flavors to create a Montana bestseller. The name and logo are so popular in fact that t-shirts, sweatshirts, baseball caps, mugs, glasses, and a host of other household items advertise their love of Montana’s beloved Moose Drool.

So check it out for yourself (the Montana Gift Corral is the perfect place to find all your Moose Drool memorabilia!) and discover the stuff that Montana legends are made of!

Grizzlies in Glacier: A Gunsight Chalet Encounter

2005-09-19T15:23:00.000-06:00

Grizzlies have long served as Montana’s chosen animal symbol, and it’s a known fact that grizzlies populate the Treasure State - especially Glacier National Park. Hikers are warned of bears’ presence and instructed in bear safety etiquette, yet most backcountry users return to the civilized world devoid of bear encounters and intriguing bear tales. One great bear tale does exist, though, and it has haunted park officials and historians for decades.

Legend has it that in 1915, a mule packer transporting supplies from Sun Camp to the Gunsight Chalet encountered the largest bear tracks he had ever seen. The packer’s ten-gallon hat was tiny in comparison, and the packer knew he and his mules could be in for a dangerous adventure. Within a matter of days, one of the mules was missing, and upon tracing a scant splotch of blood and the same large bear tracks, the packer found the few remains of his mule.

The mule packer returned to camp and immediately warned a horse guide accompanying him to beware of the giant bear. And with good reason. Just a few days later, the packer’s mules spooked and rushed to the safety of their owner at the Gunsight Chalet. Determined to drive the bear away, the packer and the horse guide decided to scout out the region and put an end to the ferocious beast’s behavior. What they found, however, put an end to their plans.

Standing in a meadow near Gunsight Lake’s shores was the largest grizzly they had ever seen or even imagined to exist. The packer and guide estimated the grizzly weighed a hefty 1,000 pounds or more, and the bear with its penetrating yellow eyes showed no fear. Although the bear’s golden-brown fur bristled at the sight of its onlookers, the bear simply dropped on all fours and retreated into the brush. The encounter was the last that the packer and guide ever had with the bear, and they returned safely home at the end of the packing season.

But the giant bear was still alive and well. Historical documents report that the bear broke into Gunsight Chalet during the 1915 winter and destroyed or scattered nearly all of its contents. When word reached park authorities of the event, officials decided something had to be done with this bear and its violent temper. They immediately called in renowned bear hunter Bill Burns, instructing him to put an end to the dangerous creature. Burns did as he was told during autumn of 1916, scattering fish parts near the chalet to lure in the bruin.

Burns’ plan worked, and under the light of a full moon, the giant creature stumbled across the meadow towards the decaying entrails. Burns’ dogs broke loose, tearing into the bear and clawing for the creature’s throat. But the dogs were no match for the ferocious killer who swiped his giant paws at the dogs until they lay motionless. The bear then snatched his sack of fish and retreated to the mountains. Unable to track the bear, Burns’ reported to park officials with only another tale of the giant bear.

At that moment, park officials decided there was no stopping the bruin, and the Gunsight Chalet and surrounding area were abandoned. To this day, no one knows for sure the ultimate fate of Glacier’s giant bear.

Vacationing Forest Service Style

2005-09-15T15:21:00.000-06:00

The Ponderosa Pine serves as Montana’s state tree, and there’s no better way to discover these trees than with a visit to one of Montana’s many pristine forests. Forests are scattered throughout every region of Montana, offering plenty of outdoor recreation as well as a unique lodging option. Unbeknownst to many visitors, the U.S. Forest Service in Montana rents out cabins and lookout stations for a nominal fee. These cabins are available throughout the Treasure State, but one of the most popular rests southwest of Bozeman in the Gallatin Canyon.

Garnet Mountain Lookout Station provides unparalleled panoramic views of the Gallatin Range, Spanish Peaks, and other distant mountains and forests. The lookout cabin is available year-round and can accommodate up to four people for just $30.00 per night. Reservations are recommended well in advance (as Montana residents are very aware of the Forest Service’s best-kept secret)!

To access the cabin during summer, travel south on Highway 191 to the Squaw Creek Road. The cabin lies 3.5 miles up the Garnet Mountain Lookout Trail, and guests must hike or bike to the cabin. During winter, visitors should park near the Squaw Creek Ranger Station and snowmobile, ski, or snowshoe 10 miles to the cabin via the Squaw Creek and Rat Lake Roads. Avalanches plague the Garnet Mountain Lookout Trail, so visitors are highly discouraged from taking this path to the cabin during winter.

In general, permits for all of Montana’s Forest Service cabins are granted on a first-come, first-served basis, and visitors must limit their stay to 14 days or less. Permits, as well as maps and access directions, are available from the Ranger District governing the area where the cabin of your choice is located. Visitors should keep in mind that these cabins are primitive and are generally equipped with a table, chairs, bunk beds, and a wood stove. Guests must bring their own bedding and should be prepared to treat their water from outside sources. Electricity is generally not available, and at times, guests may have to cut their own firewood.

Although the cabins certainly are not a four-star retreat, they do offer a unique means of experiencing Montana’s beautiful outdoors year-round. On your next trip to Montana, consider taking a step up from tent camping with a Forest Service style vacation!

Montana Ballet: Mixing Athleticism with Art

2005-09-13T10:45:00.000-06:00

Although not traditionally considered a sport, ballet does require a certain sense of athleticism from its top performers. Stamina, hard work, energy, training, and all the other skills associated with today’s most popular sports are necessary components in presenting a graceful and artistic ballet performance. Despite its distance from major ballet centers and a reluctant first acceptance, Montana is now home to a thriving ballet scene.

In the late 70s and early 80s, ballet wasnt taken very seriously in Montana. Ann Bates, Artistic Director of Montana Ballet, appealed to state legislators for a portion of the state coal-tax arts money to no avail. She finally persuaded Rep. Francis Bardanouve that it was unfair to ignore dance while supporting other arts and athletics. Lawmakers subsequently awarded her a $10,000 grant. She sent the venerable Bardanouve a tutu which he gamely wore on his head.

Today Montana Ballet is the only small dance company in the rural west with big company goals: 1) To educate the youth of the Gallatin Valley in dance at the professional level; 2) To present a season of international dance companies, world-known ballet stars, and local talent of amazingly high caliber; and 3) To offer a variety of outreach opportunities to schools as far as 100 miles away from Bozeman. Comments about productions reflect astonishment that the Bozeman area could be the home to a ballet company equal to comparable companies in much larger communities.

The motivation for this excellence stems from the pride Montana Ballet staff and Board of Directors take in making art that surprises and delights. Visiting companies for each Fall’s international performance have included Woofa from New Guinea, Tangokinesis from Buenos Aires, Jose Greco from Madrid, and the Dance Masters of Bali. The full season of Montana Ballet Company’s performances also includes the much-anticipated and usually sold-out holiday Nutcracker extravaganza presented the first weekend of every December, coinciding with Bozeman’s Christmas Stroll. Another favorite of the community is the New York Connection production presented as part of the two-week New York Connection workshop offered each August in association with Montana State University’s College of Arts and Architecture. Professional dance teachers offer classes in a variety of subjects and join the dancers in the two culminating productions performing works by Balanchine as well as classical repertoire. More information about Montana Ballet Company and its affiliate, the privately owned Montana Ballet School, is available at www.montanaballet.com.

Partially reprinted from “The Ultimate Montana Atlas & Travel Encyclopedia”

U.S. High Altitude Sports Center

2005-09-06T10:43:00.000-06:00

Butte. (406) 494-7570

When you first exit the Homestake Pass driving west into Butte, one of the first things you see is a large oval track. This track has been the training ground for several Olympic speedskating champions, including Bonnie Blair and Dan Jansen. The outdoor speed skating facility was completed in 1987 and has been the venue for several national and world speedskating competitions. In 1994, the Women’s World Championship was held here. The World Cup Competition has been held here on six different occasions. What makes the Center unique is its altitude. At a 5,500 foot elevation, it is a premier training facility providing athletes from around the world a chance to build stamina through exercise programs tailored for varying competitions.

Reprinted from “The Ultimate Montana Atlas & Travel Encyclopedia”

Reading the Rockies

2005-09-03T10:40:00.000-06:00

Can’t visit the Rocky Mountain Region in person? Then travel there from a distance by “Reading the Rockies.” The Ultimate Montana online bookstore provides readers with books on nearly every possible subject relating to the Northern Rockies. From books highlighting the region’s best fishing spots and hiking trails to great fiction reads set in the beauty of the West, the Ultimate Montana bookstore carries something for everyone who is interested in Montana, Wyoming, Idaho, Yellowstone, or Glacier National Park. In addition, the bookstore carries approximately thirty magazines ranging from skiing to the Western lifestyle - all waiting your discovery. Read the Rockies today with a visit to the Ultimate Montana bookstore!

Polo Under the Big Sky

2005-08-30T10:39:00.000-06:00

Polo “The Cowboy Way,” is played across Montana each summer from Missoula to Billings and Great Falls to Bozeman. Now it might not look like white pants and English saddles, but these western horsemen sure have a lot of fun when they get together to battle over the ball. The game is played in rodeo style arenas with two five player teams. Each player is armed with a mallet, and the object is to knock an inflatable rubber ball through the other team’s goal. All that is needed is a horse, a mallet, the ability to ride, and the love of adventure.

Players use western tack, helmets with face guards, and padded chaps. Competition consists of two teams on the field, a player from each team in each of the five zones. The 15 minute periods are called chukkers— four of which constitutes the game. Teams change goal directions at the beginning of each chukker, and the ball changes possession after a score. A score is made when the ball is whacked through the opposing team’s goal. If a score is made from within the first zone, it counts as one point, if made from the second zone, two points, and if made from the center zone, three points. Each game is run by two referees, who ensure the rules are followed and determine if a score counts for one or more points. In addition, there is one goal spotter at each end of the field who informs the referees when the ball goes through the goalposts. Other game officials consist of a scorekeeper, timekeepers, and an announcer to call the play-by-play.

If you like beautiful horses and things western, and want to see them at their best, bring your lawn chair, pull up some shade, and enjoy the next Montana Cowboy Polo match. For more information call (406) 587-5088.

Reprinted from “The Ultimate Montana Atlas & Travel Encyclopedia”

Montana Football: It's Serious Business

2005-08-26T10:37:00.000-06:00

Sold-out crowds, cheering students, pepped-up mascots, painted faces, spirited rivalry. It all boils down to one of the Treasure State’s favorite fall pastimes: Montana football. Although out-of-staters may not realize it, football is serious business in Montana. Fans pack the stadiums in Bozeman and Missoula to watch respectively as the Montana State University “Fighting Bobcats” and the University of Montana “Grizzlies” take on their Big Sky Conference opponents. And they do it with good reason. Both teams are consistently ranked in “The Sports Network’s” list of the Top 25 NCAA Division I-AA teams, and both promise games filled with action and nail-biting excitement.

Waving banners of blue and gold, Montana State University fans have followed the Bobcats loyally through seasons of limited success to the glory days of hard-fought gains. The Bozeman-based team is expected to make an exciting 2005 showing with a predicted third place finish in the pursuit of the championship title. No doubt, this team will play its season to loud strains of young and old singing the MSU Fight Song:

Stand up and cheer
Cheer long and loud for dear Montana
For today we raise
The blue and gold to wave victorious
Our sturdy band now is fighting
And we are sure to win the fray
We’ve got the vim, We’re here to win
For this is dear Montana’s day!

On the state’s western border, University of Montana Griz fans in Missoula are just as passionate about their home team. With the support of their mascot “Monte,” the competitive Griz have either won or shared seven straight Big Sky Conference championships since 1993 with team victories in 1995 and 2001. In 2004, the rock-solid players advanced to the Division I-AA playoffs for the 12th season in a row, and they’re expected to make a similar showing during the 2005 season. Conference coaches and the sports media all predict an impressive second place finish in the chase for the 2005 league championship.

So what do you get when you pit these two teams against each other? Nothing less than one of the most spirited football rivalries in the Rocky Mountain West. Loyal fans drive hours just to catch the action, and the Bobcat-Griz battle is a sold-out favorite long before the teams hit the turf for their season openers. This year, the teams match up in Bozeman for their 105th meeting on November 19th, and those who can’t make it to the game in person will be glued to their TVs for the live televised performance.

Although season tickets for the teams’ scheduled games have now sold out, a handful of single tickets are still available for each home game. But they won’t last long. After all, nothing in Missoula or Bozeman signals the arrival of fall better than hard-core football action under the beautiful Big Sky.

Lewis & Clark Caverns

2005-08-20T08:58:00.000-06:00

19 miles west of Three Forks on Montana 2. (406) 287-3541.

Located in the rugged Jefferson River Canyon, Lewis and Clark Caverns features one of the most highly decorated limestone caverns in the Northwest. Naturally air conditioned, these spectacular caves are lined with stalactites, stalagmites, columns, and helictites. The Caverns—which are part of Montana’s first and best known state park—are electrically lighted and safe to visit. Guided cave tours are offered at Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park, including special candle light tours in December. To avoid peak use periods, call the park for suggested visitation and tour times.

Lewis and Clark Caverns are the largest limestone caves in Montana and have fascinated children as well as adults for many years. The labyrinth of these underground caves leads you through narrow passages among stalactites and stalagmites which glitter and drip. Truly a limestone fairyland decorated by nature, these colorful and intriguing formations make for a worthwhile two-hour tour. Also within the park are breathtaking views of the Tobacco Root Mountains and the Jefferson River valley.

Reprinted from “The Ultimate Montana Atlas & Travel Encyclopedia”

Virginia City: Trains, Follies & Players

2005-08-16T08:56:00.000-06:00

Once home to outlaws, riches, and a vibrant 1860s entrepreneurial spirit, Virginia City welcomes visitors to discover its colorful past every June through Labor Day. Stroll the streets of the remarkably well-preserved downtown where many of the nineteenth century boomtown buildings still stand at their original location. While you’re there, be sure to check out the town’s famous train, follies, and players, three entertainment values sure to delight both young and old.

First up, the Alder Gulch Short Line escorts passengers from Virginia City to Nevada City on historic Baldwin Steam Engine #12. The 1.25-mile trip includes entertaining narratives from the train’s engineer, and visitors learn fascinating tidbits about the area’s history. The train operates from early June through late August, and an admission fee is charged.

The next venue to hit the spotlight is the Illustrious Virginia City Players. Recognized as Montana’s oldest professional theater, the Players have created a 56-year history of successful performances and crowd-pleasing fun. The Players feature some of America’s finest directors, designers, and actors, and the authentic Victorian plays and side-splitting vaudeville variety shows are showcased in Virginia City’s old Opera House. 2005 season shows include “The Canterville Ghost,” “The Moonstone,” and “Sweeney Todd: The Demon Barber of Fleet Street.” Performances include daily evening shows at 7 PM and weekend matinees at 2 PM from June through Labor Day. Reservations are highly encouraged; call 1-800-829-2969 for tickets.

Catering mostly to adults with its cabaret atmosphere and comedy, satire, and ad-libbing, the Brewery Follies has been a Virginia City fixture since 1984. Each captivating show takes place in Montana’s first brewery, a building dating back to 1863 and German-born brewmeister, H.S. Gilbert. Boisterous laughter is guaranteed as the show’s actors entertain with comedy sketches, musical pieces, and social and political commentary. At the same time, patrons can sample a Montana microbrew or an old-fashioned soda. Performances are provided early June through Labor Day with showtimes at 8 PM Wednesday through Sunday and a bit tamer matinee at 4 PM Monday through Friday. The shows generally sell out, so reservations are highly recommended; call (406) 843-5218.

Floating the Madison

2005-08-13T16:07:00.000-06:00

Travel west of Bozeman on Montana Highway 84 (Norris Road) on any given summer day, and you’re likely to see hundreds of people decked out in swimming suits and shorts. What’s going on, you ask? None other than the local tradition of floating the Madison.

Originating in Wyoming, the scenic Madison River crashes and twists its way through Montana, churning up powerful whitewater rapids before stilling into a snail’s pace as it creeps its way to the headwaters of the Missouri River. While the Madison’s upper whitewater rapids receive their fair share of use, it is the lower section beyond Bear Trap Canyon that has become the quintessential summer destination for people of all ages. This lower river section features only a few occasional waves or rocks, and some spots are low enough that people can stand in the middle of the river! Tubes in all shapes and sizes bob in the molasses-slow current while their occupants soak up summer rays and wave to other floaters enjoying the wide river. For those experienced floaters who really know how to have a good time, coolers are held in high esteem and receive their own special tube. Friends, snacks, beverages, water, sun. What could be more fun on a hot Montana summer day?

To experience this Montana tradition for yourself, travel west on MT Highway 84 to the put-in at Warm Springs Access Point. The point can’t be missed; a huge parking lot full of cars waits where the highway departs the Madison River to wind along Warm Springs Creek. After meandering 6 to 7 miles downriver, floaters will reach the take-out point at the Blacks Ford Fishing Access site. Floaters should plan on spending the better part of a day to complete this entire float. For those short on time, a well-marked highway bridge denotes the halfway point where floaters can either put-in or take-out. Rental tubes are available at several sporting goods stores in Bozeman, but plan ahead. On any hot day before Labor Day, tubes are in high demand as everyone rushes to the river to beat the heat!

Bighorn Canyon & Yellowtail Dam

2005-08-10T16:28:00.000-06:00

At first glance, time seems to have stopped at Bighorn Canyon. The lake and the steep-sided canyons provide a peaceful setting for those seeking a break from the daily routine. The focus of the area is 71-mile-long Bighorn Lake, created by Yellowtail Dam near Fort Smith. Dedicated in 1968, the dam provides electric power, water for irrigation, flood control, and recreation. Boating, water skiing, fishing, swimming, and sightseeing are main attractions.

While you enjoy the play of light and shadow on rock and water, take time to contemplate the changes that the land and the life upon it have undergone. Time and water are keys to the canyon, where the land has been shaped by moving water since upheavals of the Earth’s crust built the Pryor and Bighorn mountains millions of years ago. For 15 miles upstream from the dam, the lake bisects a massive, arching anticline, exposing fossils that tell of successive times when this land was submerged under a shallow sea, when it was a tropical marsh, and when its conifer forests were inhabited by dinosaurs. Humans arrived here more than 10,000 years ago, living as hunters and gatherers. In modern times people have further altered the land.

Most of Bighorn’s visitors come to enjoy the recreational opportunities the lake offers. Boaters, water skiers, anglers and scuba divers are all attracted here. But the park offers more than just the lake: from the wild flowers in spring and summer to more than 200 species of birds; from the stories of life forms adapting to a harsh environment to the modern search for energy. You can get more information on what the park offers at visitor centers near Lovell, WY, and Fort Smith, MT. Find your own place of solitude to relax and to enjoy the diversity and timelessness of this uncommon canyon water land.

A Challenging Land
In North America people have traveled and made their living along rivers and streams for more than 40,000 years. But the Bighorn River was too treacherous and too steep-walled. People here lived near the Bighorn but avoided navigating it—until the dam tamed the river.

The broken land here also challenged the ingenuity of early residents, forcing them to devise unusual strategies of survival. More than 10,000 years ago, Indian hunters drove herds of game into land traps. These Indians lived simply, gathering wild roots and seeds to balance and supplement their meat diet. They made clothes of skins, baskets and sandals of plant fibers, and tools of stone, bone, and wood. The many caves of the Bighorn area provided seasonal shelters and storage areas for the Indians, as well as for early traders and trappers.

Absaroke means “People of the largebeaked bird,” in the Siouan language of the Crow. Their reservation surrounds most of Bighorn Canyon. Originally a farming people, the Crow split off from the Hidatsa tribe more than 200 years ago. They became a renowned hunting people, described by one of the Lewis and Clark Expedition as “the finest horsemen in the world.”

After 1800, explorers, traders, and trappers found their way up the Bighorn River. Charles Larocque met the Crow at the mouth of the Bighorn in 1805; Captain William Clark traveled through a year later. Jim Bridger claimed he had floated through the canyon on a raft. Later fur traders packed their goods overland on the Bad Pass Trail, avoiding the river’s dangers.

During the Civil War the Bozeman Trail led to mines in western Montana by crossing the Bighorn River. Open from 1864 to 1868, the trail was bitterly opposed by Sioux and Cheyenne; the Crow were neutral. The Federal Government closed the trail in 1868 after the Fort Laramie Treaty. Fort C.F. Smith, now on private land, guarded the trail as an outpost. A stone monument commemorates the Hayfield Fight, a desperate but successful defense against Sioux and Cheyenne warriors. In this skirmish a party of soldiers and civilian haycutters, working three miles north of Fort C.F. Smith, fought for eight hours until rescued by the fort’s troops on August 1, 1867.

After the Civil War, cattle ranching became a way of life. Among the huge open-range cattle ranches was the Mason-Lovell (the ML); some of those buildings remain. Dude ranching, reflected in the remains of Hillsboro, was popular in the early 1900s. The Crow made the transition from huntergatherers to ranchers in one generation. In 1904, after 12 years of labor, they completed an irrigation system and opened 35,000 acres of land to irrigated farming. Water was diverted into the Bighorn Canal by a 416-foot diversion dam, moving 720 cubic feet of water per second. Near Afterbay Campground is Bighorn Canal Headgate, remains of this human response to the challenge of the land.

Congress established Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area in 1966 as part of the National Park System to provide enjoyment for visitors today and to protect the park for future generations.

Bighorn Canyon Visitor Center
The solar-heated visitor center near Lovell, WY., symbolizes the energy-conscious concerns of the National Park Service and of modern Americans. The heating is accomplished by storing heat from the sun in a rock bin, then blowing hot air through the building. The Yellowtail Dam Visitor Center, in the park, is two miles past the community of Fort Smith. It is approachable from the north by car.

Bighorn Wildlife
The wildlife of the Bighorn Canyon country is as varied as the land, which can be divided into four climate or vegetative zones. In the south is desert shrub land inhabited by wild horses, snakes, and small rodents. Midway is juniper woodland with coyotes, deer, bighorn sheep, beaver, wood rats, and porcupine. Along the flanks of the canyon is pine and fir woodland with mountain lions, bear, elk, and mule deer. In the north is shortgrass prairie, once home to herds of buffalo. Many of the smaller animals, such as cottontails, skunks, coyotes, and rattlesnakes, are seen frequently throughout the park. More than 200 species of birds, including many kinds of water fowl, have been seen here. Each plant and animal species is adapted to the particular conditions of temperature, moisture, and landform within one or more of the park’s four primary zones.

Yellowtail Dam
The dam is named in honor of Robert Yellowtail, former Crow tribal chairman and reservation superintendent. The dam creates one of the largest reservoirs on the Missouri River tributary system. This arch type dam is 525 feet high.

Yellowtail Wildlife Habitat Management Area
Riparian, cottonwood forest, shrub land, and wetlands provide habitat for whitetail deer, bald eagles, pelicans, heron, water fowl, wild turkeys, and other species. The area is managed by the Wyoming Game and Fish Department through agreements with the National Park Service, Bureau of Land Management, and Bureau of Reclamation.

Ranch Sites Mason-Lovell Ranch: A.L. Mason and H.C Lovell built cattle ranch headquarters here in 1883. Cattle roamed the Bighorn Basin in a classic open-range operation.

Hillsboro: A one mile round trip trail takes you to the site of Grosvenor William Barry’s Cedarvale Guest Ranch and the 1915 to 1945 Hillsboro post office.

Lockhart: Caroline Lockhart, a reporter, editor, and author, began ranching at age 56. The well preserved buildings give a feel for ranch life; one mile roundup.

Ewing-Snell: This site was in use for nearly 100 years.

Bad Pass Trail
American Indians camped along this trail 10,000 years ago, and in prehistoric and historic times Shoshone used it to get to the buffalo plains. Early trappers and traders used it to avoid the dangers of the Bighorn River. You can see rock calms left along the route between Devil Canyon Overlook and Barry’s Landing. Before the arrival of the horse, life changed little here for thousands of years. Small family groups wintered in caves near the canyon bottoms. In early spring they moved out of the canyon bottoms in search of plants and small animals, and in summer they moved to the highlands in search of game and summer maturing plants. Large groups gathered in fall for a communal bison hunt.

Devil Canyon Overlook
Here the canyon crosscuts the gray limestone of the Devil Canyon Anticline, a 1,000-foot high segment of the fault blocks that make up the Pryor Mountains.

What to See and Do
A film at Bighorn Canyon Visitor Center highlights park activities. Exhibits explain the canyon’s history and natural features.

Boating enthusiasts will find a marina, snack bar, camp store (gas and oil), and boat ramp at Horseshoe Bend and OkABeh. Ramps are also at Afterbay Dam and Barry’s Landing. All boaters should sign registration sheets at the ramps when entering and leaving the lake. If mechanical problems develop while you are on the lake, stay with your boat; hail other boaters and ask them to notify a ranger. Carry both day and night signaling devices. Do not try to climb the lake’s steep canyon walls.

Swimmers are encouraged to use the lifeguarded areas at Horseshoe Bend and Ok-ABeh.

Camping is restricted to designated sites in developed areas. It is also allowed in the backcountry and below the highwater mark along Bighorn Lake. Fire restrictions during periods of high fire danger may close certain areas to camping. Check with a ranger for the restrictions on fires or backcountry camping.

Hiking is available in the national recreation area and in nearby forests. Ask at the visitor centers for more information.

Hunting is allowed in designated areas in accordance with state laws. Trapping is prohibited. Fishing in Montana or Wyoming requires the appropriate state fishing license. Fine game fish, such as brown and rainbow trout, sauger, ling, and perch, abound. The most popular game fish, a gourmet’s delight, is the walleye. Winter ice fishing around Horseshoe Bend is good. The Bighorn River provides excellent brown and rainbow trout fishing.

Regulations and Safety: Firearms are prohibited in developed areas and areas of concentrated public use, unless they are unloaded and cased. Pets must be on a leash in developed areas and in areas of concentrated public use. Trash and waste disposals into area waters are prohibited; all vessels must have a waste receptacle on board. Carry a first-aid kit as a precaution against poisonous snake bites. All plants, animals, natural and cultural features, and archeological sites are protected by federal law. Collecting is prohibited.

Reprinted from National Park Service brochure and “The Ultimate Montana Atlas & Travel Encyclopedia”

Hiking Bighorn Canyon

2005-08-06T16:27:00.000-06:00

With its steep-sided canyons, isolated nature, juniper forests, and amazing area views, Bighorn Canyon is a hiker’s dream come true. Hikers should always wear sturdy shoes and pack along plenty of sunscreen and water; the area is known for its hot summer days that leave hikers prone to sunburns and dehydration. Although the area is lined with trails, the following are three of the most popular canyon hikes.

State Line Trail
Description: Easy to Moderate, 1 Mile Round Trip
Just north of the Montana State line, you will find a cairn marking the beginning of this trail. Follow the cairns along an old road that leads to the rim of the canyon. You may then follow the canyon rim for several hundred feet. This trail leads through juniper forest and limestone plateaus to unique views of the canyon.

Sullivan’s Knob Trail
Description: Easy to Moderate, 1 Mile Round Trip
Roughly 1 mile north of Devil’s Canyon Overlook, you will find a turnout around a geological formation known as Sullivan’s knob. Turn into the parking lot at Sullivan’s knob. Follow the cairns and the trail to the right of the hill directly in front of you (East). Follow the cairns to the canyon rim. From there it's possible to see the north side of Devil’s Canyon Overlook.

Om-Ne-A Trail
This is a rim-top trail that provides some awesome views of the magnificent Bighorn Canyon. The 3-mile trail goes from Yellowtail Dam to Ok-A-Beh marina. The trail starts at Yellowtail Dam and is steep for the first quarter mile.

Partially reprinted from “The Ultimate Montana Atlas & Travel Encyclopedia”

Chief Plenty Coups State Park

2005-08-02T16:26:00.000-06:00

1 mile west of Pryor on county road. (406) 252-1289

The fascinating and honorable life of Chief Plenty Coups is remembered at this location. He was the respected tribal chief of the Crow people from 1904-1932 and was the tribe’s most revered leader; loved by his people, as well as respected by white leaders. With many achievements during his leadership, he was the most respected chief the Crows would ever have and was not replaced after his death.

Chief Plenty Coups was a brave warrior and leader, enforcing his beliefs that education was the way to deal with the white man. He adapted to the changing times, replacing his tepee for a two-story cabin by the Pryor Mountain Range, where he cultivated the land. This was a show of peace to the white man, and he was a great mediator, explaining the importance of peace between all people.

After frequent trips to Washington D.C., in 1924 he was asked to represent American Indians in the dedication of the tomb of the unknown soldier at Arlington National Cemetery. Here, Plenty Coups gave an unforgettable short speech and prayer for peace.

Chief Plenty Coups donated his land and home to be used by all people of all races in friendship. At his death in 1932, the land became Chief Plenty Coups State Park and consists of a 40-acre homestead with a Crow Indian Museum, the Chief’s home and store, his grave, and a gift shop.

The Park is open from May 1 through September 30, 8 AM to 8 PM. The visitor center hours are 10 AM to 5 PM. A fee is charged.

Reprinted from “The Ultimate Montana Atlas & Travel Encyclopedia”

Must-See Montana Recreation Areas

2005-07-29T08:46:00.000-06:00

Montana in and of itself is a natural playground catering to year-round recreationists. Lakes, rivers, forests, and mountains combine to create one of America’s finest outdoor settings, and Montana takes advantage of these outdoor jewels in several designated recreation areas. From swimming to fishing to picnicing, the following must-see recreation areas provide something fun for everyone!

Pattee Canyon Recreation Area
The large picnic area and system of roads and trails make Pattee Canyon one of the most popular recreation areas close to Missoula.

Facilities
The picnic area includes tables, fire rings, toilets (some handicapped accessible), parking and group Picnic facilities, but no running water, electricity or shelters. Three group picnic sites, with their extra large tables, extra grills, and parking lots, can accommodate from 40 to 200 people. Arrangements for using the group sites are made through the Missoula Ranger District office at 329-3814. Volunteer hosts are on duty in the picnic area during the summer. The Pattee Canyon Recreation Area is day use only.

Trails & Roads
The extensive year-round system of trails and roads is open to non motorized use. A person can get all the way from the picnic area to the Clark Fork river on these trails and roads. During winter some of the trails, like the Southside Ski Trail, are groomed and maintained for crosscountry skiing. The groomed trails north of the road were developed in the 1980s by the Missoula Nordic Ski Club and the Forest Service. Not all ski trails are groomed. The 3 1/2-mile long Sam Braxton National Recreation trail is an ungroomed loop featuring big, old trees and pretty views. In the 1970s, Sam Braxton and the University of Montana Ski Team developed a network of cross-country ski trails near the Larch Camp Road. These trails are no longer used.

Natural History
Besides being so close to town, the reason Pattee Canyon is so popular is because of its big, old trees. Most are ponderosa pine, or “yellow pine,” the Montana state tree. Photographs and surveys from the late 1800s show open, sunny meadows with a few big trees, large ponderosa pines spaced from 25 to 50 feet apart, with little but grass growing under them. A survey conducted between 1870 and 1900 recorded trees up to 5 feet in diameter! Research has shown that since at least the mid-1500s, low-intensity ground fires have burned this area about once every seven years. These ground fires killed brush and young trees, but the thick bark of the yellow pines protected them from serious harm. The ground fires have produced a “fire-dependent old-growth” condition here.

When people started fighting fires at the turn of the century, the ecology of this area changed. It’s been invaded by brush and Douglas-fir. The brush and young trees are a fire danger to the old trees, because they serve as fire ladders, leading ground fire into the tops of the mature trees, where it can kill them.

In 1977, the 1,200-acre Pattee Canyon fire killed many of the old trees in its path. This human caused fire burned intensely hot, largely because of all the brush and small tree fuels feeding it. You can see the result from Missoula, a large burned-over area at the southeast edge of town.

Human History
• “Es Nin Paks.” The Nez Perce and Salish Indians used Pattee Canyon on their way to the plains for buffalo hunting. The Native Americans called it “es nin paks,” the crooked trail. They used it as a detour to avoid ambush by Blackfeet warriors in the narrow Hellgate Canyon of the Clark Fork River, where Interstate 90 now leads into Missoula.

• David Pattee. The Canyon takes its present name from David Pattee, who in 1871 filed a homestead claim on some land near the mouth of the canyon. In 1856, he came to the Bitterroot Valley from New Hampshire, to rebuild saw- and gristmills owned by Major John Owen. (The Fort Owen State Monument at Stevensville is named after him.) Pattee was active in several local businesses, but sold out and moved to Tacoma in 1878.

• Army timber reserve. In 1877, the US Army started building Fort Missoula. Since some of the largest trees in the area grew at the top of Pattee Canyon, it set aside a timber reserve of some 1,600 acres here. The old timber reserve is the basis of this recreation area. The Army pushed logging roads up every drainage and draw. The main road, now used as a trail, turned north up Crazy Canyon. In the 1920s, the Army built a rifle range in the meadow at the pass. The long loop of the Meadow Loop Trail goes around the old rifle range, where earthen backstops and concrete foundations still can be seen. The range was closed in 1945.

Opportunities & Facilities
• Picnics
• Toilets (some handicapped accessible)
• Hiking
• Horseback Riding
• Jogging and running
• Bicycling
• Cross-country skiing
• Group picnics by permit only - call 329-3814
• Picnic area gate open from 9 am until sundown daily from Memorial Day until Labor Day
• Campfires allowed in facilities provided
• All trail open to a variety of uses yearlong, but no motorized vehicles allowed off roads
• Day use only, no overnight camping
• Shooting firearms and fireworks prohibited
• No running water or electricity available. Leave No Trace.

Blue Mountain Recreation Area
There are three major access points off this road:
• The trailhead for the National Recreation Trail, about 1/2 mile north on Blue Mountain Road.
• Forest Road #365, turns left off Blue Mountain Road about 1.4 miles from Highway 93 South.
• Maclay Flat turnoff, on the right about 1.5 miles from Highway 93 South.

The Recreation Area
Located just two miles west of Missoula, Blue Mountain Recreation Area is a great place to explore. Once a U.S. Army Military Reservation, the 5,500 acres of valley bottom and mountain top became part of the Lolo National Forest in 1952. In 1975, a number of civic groups joined the Forest Service in a major clean-up project. Abandoned vehicles and garbage were removed, a system of trails was built, and regulations were established to protect people from indiscriminate shooting. In 1986, Blue Mountain was formally designated a Recreation Area.

Maclay Flat Trails
At the base of Blue Mountain, two connecting loop trails at Maclay Flat offer an easy stroll through open grasslands and ponderosa pine. Parallel to the Bitterroot River, these trails (1-1/4 and 1-3/4 miles long) feature interpretive signs, benches, and wide wheelchair friendly paths. Maclay Flat also has picnic tables and wheel chair accessible toilets. Be considerate of other users and wildlife in the area. If you bring a dog, bring and use a leash.

Mountain Trails
• Blue Mountain National Recreation Trail — 8 miles long. This trail is for hiking and horses. Vehicles and mountain bikes are prohibited!
• Blue Mountain Nature Trail — 1/4-mile-long loop trail. Wheelchair accessible up to the viewpoint. Information about the numbered posts along the trail is contained in a separate brochure, available at the trailhead or the Missoula Ranger District office.

Scenic Drive/Fire Lookout
A rare sight awaits those who travel to the top of Blue Mountain: a working Forest Service lookout. Open from spring through fall—depending on snow conditions—and suitable for passenger cars and trucks, the mountain’s gravelled road offers an easy climb and some great views of the Missoula valley and distant peaks.

During fire season, Blue Mountain visitors can climb the 50-foot lookout for a personal tour. Safety regulations, however, limit visitors to three at a time. Hours are 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Remember, the lookout staff is on duty—the job of watching out for fires must come first! Please don’t disturb this important work. To reach the lookout, take Road #365 almost to the top, then continue on Road #2137 to the peak. Note: Road #2137 is open mainly in July and August.

Camping and Campfires
Camping and campfires are allowed beginning 4.5 miles up the mountain, west of Road #365.

Reprinted from U.S. Forest Service brochure

James Kipp Recreation Area
US Hwy. 191 near Robinson Bridge. 538-746

This is a key access point for the Upper Missouri National Wild & Scenic River. For centuries, Native Americans were attracted to this area to gather plants and hunt game. The Ancient camps and bison kill sites here are evidence of human dependence along the river corridor. Lewis and Clark and their Corps of Discovery passed here on May 24, 1805, during the second year of their adventure. They camped just 2-1/2 miles down river. The members of the expedition averaged about 13 miles a day by sailing, poling, and mostly pulling their boats upriver against the formidable currents. In July, 1806, Captain Lewis and his party returned down the Missouri through this area.

Few names stand out in Missouri River history better than James Kipp. Born in Montreal in 1788, he was a fort builder, fur trader, and steamboat captain. In 1831, he established Fort Piegan near Loma, 128 river miles upstream from this spot. It was the first American Fur Company trading post established on the Missouri west of Fort Union. He made the return trip the following spring with more than 4,000 beaver pelts and other furs in tow. After 41 years in the fur trade business, he retired in 1859.

Today, this stretch of the Upper Missouri is a national treasure under the careful stewardship of government agencies and private landowners. 149 miles upriver to Fort Benton is designated as a National Wild and Scenic River. Downriver to Fort Peck, the land surrounding the river forms the heart of the C.M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge.

The Pines Recreation Area
MT Hwy. 24 N., Fort Peck

The outstanding features of this recreation area are the tall ponderosa pine trees. This unique campground on the Fork Peck Lake offers a wilderness experience with the conveniences of a shelter building, fire grill, potable water, toilets, boat ramp, and access to untamed beaches.

Kobayashi Beach on Ennis Lake
McAllister. 683-2337

Ennis Lake is relatively shallow and acts like a giant solar collector. The waters in the lake can heat up to 85º (the temperature of a very warm swimming pool) in the summertime making it a great place to swim. Kobayashi Beach is a favorite locals hangout. Its sandy beach is managed by the BLM for Montana Power Company. It’s easy to find and makes a great place to take a break from traveling. At the tiny town of McAllister just north of Ennis, take the road heading east out of town for a little over 3 miles. After you pass through a housing area, you will see the signed beach.

Partially reprinted from The Ultimate Montana Atlas & Travel Encyclopedia

An Angler’s Guide to Paradise Valley

2005-07-28T13:28:00.000-06:00

Written by: Matthew Long of Long Outfitting

As fishing has grown in popularity, so has the desire to fish in the northern gateway to Yellowstone Park, Paradise Valley. The majestic mountains seem to have an overpowering effect to draw anglers from around the globe to its abundance of blue ribbon trout fisheries. The valley, 50 miles in length, offers dozens of opportunities to fish for trout of various species and sizes, in a variety of waters from the mighty Yellowstone River to remote alpine lakes. A bit of exploration by an angler, or a day of fishing with one of the area’s professional guides can make for a successful and pleasant outing. The following brief descriptions of some of the area’s most popular fisheries are designed to lead you in the proper direction in relation to the
type of water you desire to fish, the species and size of trout you would like to catch, and the amount of money you would like to spend.

The Yellowstone River
By far, the most popular of all the angling activities is a float trip down the Yellowstone River. This wild and scenic river provides anglers with over 60 miles of floatable, fishable water in Paradise Valley. Some of the sections throughout the valley support up to 1,000 fish per mile. Do not overlook the sections upstream in Yellowstone Park and downstream towards Big
Timber, though. These areas hold excellent populations of larger trout. The types of water, as well as the speciation of the trout change rapidly
throughout the rivers length.

Depending on the time of the year, trout will feed on various orders of insects. Spring and fall provide excellent mayfly and midge hatches, while the hot, dry summer days make for excellent terrestrial and caddis action.

Take a comfortable drift boat down the river, or use one of the public access areas to gain access for wade fishing. Remember that once you have legally gained access to the river, everything below the high-water mark is public property. The most effective way to fish this large river is to hire a guide and cover a lot of water in a drift boat. Look for the pods of trout
in back eddies containing foam lines and on deeper shelves off of cut banks and current seams. Yellowstone River trout usually average between 10 and 18 inches.

The Spring Creeks
For the discriminating fly fisherman, the spring creeks are among the most famous in the world. Located in the northern end of Paradise Valley and minutes from Livingston, Montana, Armstrongs, Depuys, and Nelsons spring creeks are a convenient and popular destination. Gin clear water, prolific, complex hatches, and tricky currents all combine to make for a challenging, yet hopefully rewarding day. Breathtaking views of the lush weed beds, dimpling trout, and white-tailed deer combined with the backdrop of the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness to the east and the Gallatin Mountains to the west offer picturesque moments.

Catching trout here is anything but easy. Reading the feeding trout, matching the hatch, floating perfect drifts, and presenting accurate casts all can increase your odds of taking these selective trout. Brown, rainbow, and cutthroat trout can all be found in the privately-owned spring creeks.

All the streams are managed as fee fishing areas and have limited access to insure a quality experience for all of the anglers. Rod dates book early, and it is wise to call in advance. Approximate cost per fisherman is $75.00 per
day. Some local fly shops reserve extra rods for client’s use, so don’t be afraid to stop in and ask questions. Despite all the rumors about the damage done by the floods of 1996 and 1997, the creeks fish just as well now as before.

Private Lakes
Another option that fly fishermen often take advantage of, especially during the snow-melt run-off, are the numerous private lakes located in Paradise Valley. Fishing these still waters often produces large trout in the 14-25 inch range. Some of these lakes can be fished effectively from shore, while others are large enough to require the use of a drift boat or float tube. Some lakes require fishermen to be accompanied by a guide, while others just require a daily access rate.

Often times, fish can be caught on a variety of fly patterns from tiny midge to large leeches. The famous damsel hatch in mid-July is a wonderful time to fish dry flies. Just to give you an example of the quality of some of these fisheries, Merrell Lake, located in Tom Miner Basin, has been rated by Fly Fisherman Magazine as one of the top six privately owned lakes in North
America. This is a pretty impressive status for a 90-acre trout lake in the heart of Paradise Valley.

Other local lakes can produce some great fishing for very large rainbow, cutthroat, and brown trout. Check with a Livingston fly shop on access and price information. Prices range from $50 per angler, while others are free when fishing with a guide.

Alpine Lakes and Small Tributaries
For the fisherman who likes to get away to a “less traveled to” location, many small tributaries to the Yellowstone River and the high-altitude lakes of the Absaroka and Gallatin ranges can provide solitude, serenity and excellent fishing. Many of the fish are small, but are eager to feed on flies and are certainly some of the feistier fish you will ever encounter.

A topographic map can help you locate some destinations including Mill Creek, Big Creek, Rock Creek, Tom Miner Creek, Bear Creek, Emerald Lake, Thompson Lake, Shelf Lake, and Ramshorn Lake. There are too many of these small streams and lakes to even begin to list them all. Take your hiking shoes and some bear spray, and check your fishing regulation
book before going on your trek. Some of these lakes are in Yellowstone Park, and some are located in forest service and wilderness areas.

It is easy to see how Paradise Valley has received its name. For anglers, it is truly an angling paradise. For non-anglers, it is a geological and wildlife paradise. Come see for yourself the impressive scenery and the awesome fishing south of Livingston. Fond memories and feeding trout await your arrival.

For more information on fishing Paradise Valley, contact:
Matthew Long
(406) 222-6775;
Email: longoutfit@ycsi.net;
Internet: www.longoutfitting.com

Reprinted from The Ultimate Montana Travel Atlas & Encylopedia

Riding the Hiawatha Mountain Bike Trail

2005-07-21T13:25:00.000-06:00

Imagine mountain biking a 15-mile historic railbed trail through cavernous train tunnels, across sky high train trestles, past sparkling mountain creeks with deer, elk, moose and endless views of the towering Bitterroots. The best part is—it’s all downhill!

Located just off I-90 on the Idaho / Montana border, The Route of the Hiawatha is a scenic section of abandoned rail-bed from the “Milwaukee Road” that the Taft Tunnel Preservation Society, Silver Country, and the U.S. Forest Service have turned into a world class non-motorized trail in the area around the Montana and Idaho Border. In fact, this stretch has been called one of the most breathtaking scenic stretches of railroad in the country. This adventurous 13 mile trail takes mountain bikers (and hikers) through 10 cavernous tunnels and over 7 sky high trestles. The first tunnel you pass through is the 1.8 mile long Taft Tunnel reopened in 2001. This tunnel burrows 1.66 miles under the Idaho-Montana border The trail is operated and maintained by the Taft Tunnel Preservation Society with fees collected from all users. A shuttle bus can transport you and your bike between trail heads.

Trail Fees - Adults; Children (3-13)
Day Use: $7.00; $3.00
Season Pass: $25.00; $20.00
Shuttle Bus: $9.00; $6.00 (one way)
Helmets: (required) $6.00
Lights: $4.00
Helmet & Lights: $9.00
Bike Rentals: $22 & $26 (comfort suspension)
$16 for child’s bikes & trailers

Rentals are located at Lookout Pass Ski Area.

Shuttle Service
Weekday shuttle service: 11 A.M. to 4:15 P.M.
Weekend shuttle service: 11 A.M. to 5:45 P.M.
Weekends only after Sept 4: 12:00 P.M. to 5:15 P.M.
Children under 14 years of age require adult supervision. Helmets & lights required. No dogs or pets allowed.

The Hiawatha shuttle will run between the top and bottom of the trail throughout the days scheduled. Tickets, rentals and guided tours: Call 208-744-1301. www.skilookout.com/bike_home_page.html

Getting There: Take the Taft Exit (5) and turn south. Following the signs to the parking area. Representatives will meet you there to sell you permit and shuttle service.

The Route of the Hiawatha
In 1905, The Milwaukee and St. Paul Railway began looking for a route for their western extension over the Bitterroot Mountains. After five and a half months, exploring 930 miles, the railroad chose a route over St. Paul Pass. In laying out the route from the St. Paul Pass Tunnel the surveyors planned a line descending at a 1.7% gradient along the mountain slope. A big
consideration in choosing this route was the potential for future traffic. This route down the St. Joe River offered exclusive access to huge quantities of old growth white pine and cedar timber. Interpretive sign on trail.

The Last Transcontinental Railroad
The Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Railway’s Pacific Extension survived for 71 colorful years. Racing silk trains sped along the route, and long, rumbling troop trains carried men and materiel through four wars. The Milwaukee’s famed electric locomotives hosted presidents and celebrities and showcased the streamlined Olympian Hiawatha passenger train. The Route of the Hiawatha Rail-Trail, traces the most costly and difficult to build section of the railroad from Chicago to Tacoma. Today, thousands enjoy traveling over this scenic, historic trail helping keep alive the spirit of the Milwaukee Road.

The trail follows the trains and historians trace the history along the trail. When the Milwaukee Road abandoned its route over the Bitterroot Mountains, salvage companies striped the line of all the rails, ties, signals posts and everything else of value. The small fragments left behind are the remains of one of America’s proudest railroads. From 1907 to 1911 thousands of people lived, worked and played in this secluded part of the Bitterroot Mountains. They constructed a railroad while leaving faint signs of their own passing. Today you may see archaeologists digging and sifting along the Route of the Hiawatha Trail looking for clues about people and places not found in written documents. Historical research and archaeological field work helps breate life into the history of the Milwaukee Road years. Interpretive sign on trail.

The St. Paul Pass Tunnel
The Milwaukee Road faced the daunting task of drilling a tunnel 23 feet high, 16 feet wide and 1.7 miles long into Idaho. It was a damp, dark, dirty dig. After the approaches were prepared in 1906, and a faltering start in 1907, work began in earnest in 1908. East and west crews toiled around the clock in wet, miserable conditions, and at their best could tunnel 20 feet a day. A company official remembered that: “Men were hard to keep as the work was disagreeable and hard. Several large veins of water were encountered and at times the working conditions were almost unbearable.”

It took 750 men—400 tunneling inside, 200 outside removing the dirt and rock, and 150 running the dig’s power plant yards—two and a half years to complete. The steam-driven electric power plant set up four miles away in Taft, Montana powered both ends of the dig. Compressed air provided safe, smokeless power to the giant steam shovels that loaded the blasted, broken rock into electric rail cars for removal. Interpretive sign on trail.

Reprinted from The Ultimate Montana Atlas & Travel Encylopedia

Montana’s Favorite State Park: Canyon Ferry Lake

2005-07-18T13:23:00.000-06:00

Located on Hwy.12/287 between Helena and Townsend

As Montana’s most popular state park, Canyon Ferry Lake offers over 76 miles of shoreline notched with quiet coves perfect for swimming, fishing, and picnics. The lake has 25 recreation and camping areas with boat ramps in many of them. It is one of the most popular lakes in the state for water skiing and sailing. It is also a popular area for watching the migration of eagles in November and December.

The lake encompasses a total of 35,000 acres and is 160 feet deep at the north end. The lake covers an area Lewis and Clark described as a beautiful 10 or 12 miles wide and extending as far upriver as the eye could see.

Today, the lake is surrounded by a rich agricultural area. The cottonwood studded valley is one of growing hay, grain, sugar beets, seed potatoes and
cattle.

The name “Canyon Ferry” originated when John Oakes started ferrying miners and prospectors across the Missouri River Canyon in 1865.

Reprinted from The Ultimate Montana Travel Atlas & Encylopedia

Gates of the Mountains Boat Tours

2005-07-15T13:21:00.000-06:00

Hwy 15, north of Great Falls. 458-5241

This spectacular boat cruise along a stretch of the Missouri has been in operation for over 100 years. It retraces the areas traveled by Lewis and Clark in 1805 beginning at the Upper Holter Lake and passing through the incredible limestone cliffs where many forms of wildlife are commonly spotted. You’ll see many birds, bighorn sheep, mountain goats, and possibly even a black bear or mountain lion.

Meriwether Lewis named this stretch of the Missouri River. The sheer limestone cliffs appear to open or close as you approach or depart the
canyon. Lewis wrote “The rocks approached the river on both sides, forming a most sublime and extraordinary spectacle. Nothing can be imagined more tremendous than the frowning darkness of these rocks, which project over the river and menace us with destruction. This extraordinary range of rocks we called the Gates of the Rocky Mountains.”

In 1886, Nicholas Hilger began giving boat tours of the area. Today there are three open-air river boats that provide tours of the canyon. The 105 minute cruise begins at the marina three miles off of Exit 209 on I-15 just north of Helena. The cruise through here appears just as it did when first seen by Lewis and Clark. The cliffs are so shear here that there are very
few places to beach a boat. One of the few places is the Meriwether Picnic Area, named after the explorers it is believed camped here. The tour boat does stop here for a break. If you wish, you can take a hike up to Mann Gulch where 13 smokejumpers died in a raging forest fire in 1949. The tour boat operator will pull in close to the walls to observe Indian pictographs. There is a good chance that you will also see mountain goats along the rugged walls.

Reprinted from The Ultimate Montana Atlas & Travel Encyclopedia

Photographing Yellowstone

2005-07-10T10:21:00.000-06:00

Photography has always played an important role in Yellowstone’s history.

To help prove that the natural oddities described by mountain men and explorers did indeed exist, Ferdinand Hayden hired William Henry Jackson to produce photographs of the scenery, waterfalls, canyons, and thermal features viewed by the Hayden Expedition of 1871. Jackson used two cameras, and a bulky, time-consuming method of photography known as the wet plate process. One camera measured 6-1/2 inches by 8-1/2 inches, and the other was 8 inches by 10 inches. Due to slow shutter speeds of 5 to 15 seconds, the camera needed to be held steady by a heavy tripod. Just prior to taking a photograph, Jackson would prepare a light-sensitive emulsion layer to coat a piece of glass the same size as the camera. After exposing the glass plate negative, Jackson would immediately develop the negative in his darkroom tent before the emulsion layer dried. The average time to make a single photograph was 45 minutes.

Jackson carried hundreds of pounds of fragile glass plates, chemicals and solutions, cameras and tripod on pack mules. He would frequently take his equipment to some very difficult and sometimes precarious locations to get just the view he wanted.

The photographs taken by Jackson in 1871 were instrumental in persuading Congress to establish Yellowstone as the world’s first national park in 1872. Frank J. Haynes was another important photographer in the early days of the park, first journeying here in 1881. Haynes recognized the unique beauty of Yellowstone and realized that this first look would lead to some significant changes in his own career and life. Haynes was the official photographer for Yellowstone National Park from 1884-1916. By 1897, Haynes had two photo studios in Yellowstone. The first was located in the Upper Geyser Basin, and the second at Mammoth Hot Springs. The Haynes studios sold black and white photographs, and hand-tinted postcards and stereocards to park visitors.

One of Haynes’ most important accomplishments was documenting the early development of Yellowstone Park to accommodate increasing numbers of visitors. Haynes photographed park roads and bridges, stagecoaches, steamships on Yellowstone Lake, train stations in Gardiner and West Yellowstone, hotels, lodges, campgrounds, and visitors. Haynes also photographed the natural beauty of Yellowstone. Some of these photographs are of particular importance as they show thermal features displaying activity that differs from today.

Photography still plays an important role today in Yellowstone. Even though nearly every visitor today has a still or video camera, there remains the importance of recording today’s cultural, natural and historical features, documenting gradual changes, and events of significant importance such as the restoration of the wolf.

Reprinted from “The Ultimate Montana Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia”

Paradise Valley Scenic Drive

2005-07-07T10:20:00.000-06:00

Paradise Valley has been carved by the Yellowstone River running through the land, separating the Gallatin Range to the west and the Absaroka Range to the east. Leading from Livingston to the Gardiner entrance to Yellowstone National Park, the valley offers a spectacular landscape and great fly fishing and recreational activities. The Crow Indians inhabited this area along the river for many years before the white man settled here. Today, celebrities such as Dennis Quaid, Peter Fonda, and others call it home much of the year.

After miners struck gold in Emigrant Gulch in 1862, a few small mining towns sprouted up along the valley, including Old Chico and Yellowstone City. By the late 1800s, coal mines exceeded gold mines, and much was extracted from this area. Nowadays, ranching dominates the valley’s economic activity.

Reprinted from “The Ultimate Montana Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia”

Montana's Favorite State Park: Canyon Ferry Lake

2005-07-03T10:18:00.000-06:00

Located on Hwy. 12/287 between Helena and Townsend

As Montana’s most popular state park, Canyon Ferry Lake offers over 76 miles of shoreline notched with quiet coves perfect for swimming, fishing, and picnics. The lake has 25 recreation and camping areas with boat ramps in many of them. It is one of the most popular lakes in the state for water skiing and sailing. It is also a popular area for watching the migration of eagles in November and December.

The lake encompasses a total of 35,000 acres and is 160 feet deep at the north end. The lake covers an area Lewis and Clark described as a beautiful 10 or 12 miles wide and extending as far upriver as the eye could see. Today, the lake is surrounded by a rich agricultural area. The cottonwood studded valley is one of growing hay, grain, sugar beets, seed potatoes and cattle.

The name “Canyon Ferry” originated when John Oakes started ferrying miners and prospectors across the Missouri River Canyon in 1865.

Reprinted from The Ultimate Montana Travel Atlas & Encylopedia

Experience the Bar W Guest Ranch

2005-06-29T09:45:00.000-06:00

The Bar W Guest Ranch, situated on Spencer Lake just 3.5 miles west of Whitefish, is proud to announce its grand opening on July 2nd, 2005. Nestled amid 2,900 acres of state land, the 100-acre Bar W Guest Ranch features abundant year-round recreation and world-class accommodations in its 6,200-square-foot lodge and well-appointed guest cabins. In addition to boasting convenient access to fishing, hiking, whitewater rafting, mountain biking, golf, skiing, and snowmobiling, Bar W is renowned for horseback riding. The ranch has developed the West’s most advanced and diverse equestrian program, and guests are encouraged to experience the beautiful Rocky Mountains on horseback. For a vacation in the heart of Glacier Country, experience Bar W, and capture a Montana adventure you’ll remember for a lifetime! For additional information, please visit the ranch’s website at www.thebarw.com

The Huckleberries of Glacier

2005-06-24T09:43:00.000-06:00

You won’t get through Montana without seeing huckleberry products. These little gems are made into preserves, candies, syrups, candles, lotions, and soaps. The huckleberry is very similar to the blueberry, and incredibly sweet and tart at the same time. They have a long history in the northwest.

The Native Americans used them as an important source of food, drink, and rich dyes. Because of the huckleberry’s unique flavor and challenge to harvest, it has become one of Montana’s hottest commodities and the main ingredient in one of the state’s fastest growing industries. The huckleberry that grows in the mountains and forests of Montana is special. The berries only grow in the wild on bushes. They won’t bear fruit when transplanted or grown commercially, and availability varies year by year according to the whims of Mother Nature. In order to harvest huckleberries, pickers must go into the high mountain, Montana back country to find the bushes. “Bearing” in mind that huckleberries are a favorite food of grizzly bears, picking these tasty morsels isn’t just hard, but can also be darn hazardous. No one knows just why huckleberry bushes reproduce or what makes one patch of berries good picking one year and not the next. To really enjoy huckleberries for yourself, try some of the wonderful products that you’ll see sold throughout the state. During the summer you can often find a special treat of fresh huckleberries for sale at the local farmers markets.

Reprinted from The Ultimate Montana Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia

Bigfork: Culture on the Lake

2005-06-22T09:42:00.000-06:00

Bigfork was founded in 1902 and is located on a bay where the Swan River empties into the Flathead Lake. Bigfork is one of the valley’s most picturesque and cultured villages. The lovely resort community averages a population of 1,500, although it can swell exponentially during the summer. It houses many art galleries and shops, as well as some of the finest restaurants in the valley which are touted for their exceptional menus. The Bigfork Playhouse is acclaimed for its professional performances in the summer. Bigfork also has one of the best 18-hole golf courses in the west, keeping with its role as a resort village.

In 1901, Everit Sliter platted this site for a township. It was named for its location where the Swan River, a “big fork” of the Flathead River pours into the lake. Sliter was the town’s first postmaster and ran the town’s first hotel and general store and planted the first orchard there. The steamers that navigated the lake used Bigfork Bay as a harbor. The construction of a dam, power plant and road by Bigfork Power and Light along the Swan River in the early 1900s brought a boom to the town with the influx of construction workers. Heavy logging in the years prior to World War I brought loggers and carpenters.

Bigfork later grew as a tourist town when convict labor built the East Shore Highway from 1911 to 1914. The town became a convenient stopping point for travelers on the way to Glacier National Park. The town settled into a quiet existence and changed little for almost 50 years. In the 1980s and 1990s when Montana became a destination for urban escapees, Bigfork began a metamorphosis. Eagle Bend Golf Course was constructed, and the area evolved to a resort town. In 1986, Bigfork was selected as one of the “50 Great Towns of the West” by journalist David Vokac in his book “Great Towns of the West.”

Reprinted from The Ultimate Montana Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia

Explore Jewel Basin

2005-06-18T09:41:00.000-06:00

This is really more of a hiking area than a hike. As it is designated strictly hiking, you don’t have to contend with horse pies and ATV’s. There are over 35 miles of trail here with over 25 mountain lakes along them. The trails, usually clear by July, are accessible from the Hungry Horse Reservoir or from Jewel Basin Road near Bigfork. The main parking area can be reached by turning on Echo Lake Road off MT Hwy 83 and then onto Jewel Basin Road No. 5392. The road goes for approximately seven roller coaster miles. There is usually snow in the parking lot until mid-June. There is a ranger station here with information on the various hiking opportunities. Abundant high altitude wildflowers and wildlife are the norm here.

Reprinted from The Ultimate Montana Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia

Explore the Beautiful Gallatin and Beartrap Canyons

2005-06-15T10:32:00.000-06:00

Starting outside Bozeman and winding through Big Sky to West Yellowstone, the 85-mile Gallatin Canyon drive on US Highway 191 is arguably one of Montana's most breathtaking drives. The drive parallels the Gallatin River and skirts the majestic Spanish Peaks where it ends at the northwest corner of Yellowstone National Park. The yellow cliffs rising from the river on much of the route are constant backdrops for the paintings of the world famous Gary Carter. In addition, the canyon provides access to innumerable hikes, whitewater adventures, and tropy fly-fishing.

Beartrap Canyon stretches along State Highway 84 between Bozeman and Norris. This part of the Lee Metcalf Wilderness is popular for hiking, fishing, and whitewater sports on the Madison River. The canyon is carved by the river cutting through 1,500 feet of granite rock. In addition, the magnificent canyon offers an excellent early season hike. The fairly level trail follows the Madison River for seven miles and is accessible from the Bear Trap Recreation Area.

Partially reprinted from The Ultimate Montana Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia

Kerr Dam Tours

2005-06-11T10:30:00.000-06:00

8 miles southwest of Polson. 883-4550
To reach the dam, turn south at the first stoplight past the bridge in downtown Polson and follow the signs.

Just a few miles southwest of Polson, the 204-foot-high Kerr Dam straddles the Buffalo Rapids Canyon. The dam was completed in 1938 for Montana Power Co. and will be taken over in 2015 by the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes. It is capable of generating up to 190 megawatts of electricity. There is an English-style village at the powerhouse with a recreation area and raft launching facility. A trail and stairsteps on the canyon’s rim lead to an excellent view of the dam. The views are at their finest in late May and early June when the spillway gates are open. The balance of the year, the river is diverted through 800 foot long tunnels and sent directly to the powerhouse. You can call the number above to arrange a tour of the dam, but be patient. The crew is often working outdoors and you may have to call back several times. Tours are available from 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. daily.

Reprinted from The Ultimate Montana Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia

The Land of No Sales Tax

2005-06-08T09:41:00.000-06:00

This Date in History: June 8, 1993

In yet another Montana sales tax proposition, voters rejected the initiative on June 8, 1993 by nearly a three to one margin! State legislators have pushed the issue nearly every year since 1971, but Montana residents continue to resist the tax. As a result, Montana is a land of no sales tax, and residents from neighboring states frequently shop in Montana to take advantage of this perk.

House of Mystery

2005-06-05T09:38:00.000-06:00

Between Hungry Horse & Columbia Falls, Hwy. 2, (406) 892-1210

Located 13 miles west of Glacier National Park near Hungry Horse, The House of Mystery is Montana’s only natural vortex, producing unusual gravitational energies and mystifying phenomena. A popular family-oriented attraction, the gift shop offers old-time portraits and assorted curios, including crystals and prisms. Stop in for a tour and actually feel the strange forces at work. See where you can grow or shrink six inches just by moving three feet ahead, where birds don’t fly, and trees grow in weird shapes and odd angles. Don’t forget to bring your camera to prove it!

Grant-Kohrs National Historic Site

2005-05-30T15:09:00.000-06:00

Western edge of Deer Lodge. 849-2070

This ranch was originally settled by Johnny Grant, the proprietor of a local trading post, in 1862. Four years later he sold his holdings to a hardworking German named Conrad Kohrs. The ranch grew to become Montana’s largest ranch boasting more than 10 million acres. Each year between 8,000 and 10,000 head were shipped to market. At one time cattle with the GK brand could be found grazing on open range from the Canadian border to Colorado.

A stroll through the ranch gives you a small feel for what life was like on a frontier ranch in the open range days. Everything here is authentic to the site. Today it is a dynamic living museum with cattle, horses, and chickens. Take the self-guided tour through bunkhouse row, the blacksmith shop, the tack room, the carriage barn and other buildings. There are 90 historic structures in all, and 37,000 artifacts covering 130 years of ranch history. Nowhere is the life of a cowboy preserved so well. There is a visitor center, and the Cottonwood Creek Nature Trail combines a short walk with information about ranching, cattle grazing, and ecosystems. The park is open daily from April through September from 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. It’s open the rest of the year with reduced hours. There is a modest admission charge.

Colters Run for Life

2005-05-25T14:40:00.000-06:00

This Date in History: May 25, 1808

Although this event’s exact date and month remain veiled in mystery, it is known that spring of 1808 holds the infamous story of one of the West’s most famous explorers. On that fateful day in 1808, former Lewis and Clark expedition members, John Colter and John Potts, were trapping beaver on the Jefferson River near Three Forks when a warring band of Blackfeet surprised the two white explorers. In a panic, Potts shot and killed one of the warriors. The Blackfeet were instantly enraged and pumped Potts full of arrows. Watching his friend and business partner die before him, Colter knew his own life might be nearing its end. Although the warriors could have treated Colter to the same fate, they decided to strip Colter naked and give him a headstart as he raced for his life. Colter’s speed was an asset, and he quickly outran all but one of the ensuing warriors. In an act of sheer desperation, Colter turned around on his pursuer, speared him, and then began racing for his life again. Fortunately for Colter, he located some underbrush on the nearby river and concealed himself while the angry Blackfeet desperately searched for him. After the Blackfeet finally gave up their search, the still naked Colter walked over 250 miles through Gallatin Valley and across the Bridger Mountains. Finally, after days of running, the sunburned, starving, and injured Colter found safety at Fort Lisa on the mouth of the Big Horn River.

Bannack State Park

2005-05-20T08:30:00.000-06:00

Bannack was the site of the state’s first big gold strike in 1862 and the birthplace of Montana’s government. Gold was discovered in Grasshopper Creek on July 28, 1862. This strike set off a massive gold rush that swelled Bannack’s population to over 3,000 by 1863. The remnants of over 60 buildings show the extent of development reached during the town’s zenith. When the gold ran out, the town died.

Montana’s first territorial capital, was the site of many “firsts” in the state’s history. Bannack had the first jail, hotel, chartered Masonic Lodge, hard rock mine, electric gold dredge, quartz stamp mill, and commercial sawmill. Bannack’s two jails, built from hand-hewn logs, tell the story of the lawlessness that terrorized Grasshopper Gulch and the road to Virginia City. Road Agent’s Rock, just a few miles from Bannack, was the lookout point for an organized gang of road agents, toughs, robbers, and murders. The infamous sheriff of Bannack, Henry Plummer, was secretly the leader of this gang called “The Innocents.” The gang is said to have murdered over 102 men and robbed countless others during the eight months that Plummer served as sheriff. Many of their escapades were planned in Skinner’s Saloon, which still stands in Bannack today. It could not last. Bannack’s lawabiding citizens rose up and organized a vigilance group. In conjunction with a similar group in Virginia City, they quickly hunted down 28 of the “Innocents,” including Henry Plummer, and hanged them on the gallows Plummer had just built.

“The Toughest Town in The West” soon grew quiet due to the reign of the vigilantes and a population of transient gold seekers that left to follow better gold strikes. However, gold mining activity continued for many years. The reputation of Bannack lives on today in Western history and fiction, forming the basis of many Western novels and movies. Many actors in the drama of earlyday Bannack went on to play key roles in Montana history. The mines and placer diggings are quiet now, but the streets of Bannack still echo with the footsteps of those who seek the rich lode of Western history that Bannack hoards like the gold once hidden in its hills and creeks. Over 50 buildings remain at Bannack today, each one with a story to tell…from tumble-down, one-room bachelor cabins to the once-stately Hotel Meade. The diggin’s are quiet now, but the streets still ring with the footsteps of those seeking the rich lode of Western history that Bannack hoards like the gold once hidden in its hills…a moment in time for modern-day visitors to discover and enjoy.

Walk the deserted streets of Bannack, and discover for yourself the way the West really was. Bannack is one of the best preserved of all of Montana’s ghost towns. Bannack is unique…preserved rather than restored…protected rather than exploited.

Reprinted from a Bannack State Park brochure and “The Ultimate Montana Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia.”

Montana's Scenic Wonder Receives Official Status

2005-05-10T13:44:00.000-06:00

This Date in History: May 11, 1910

Encompassing over a million acres of some of the world’s most breathtaking scenery, Glacier National Park finally received Congressional attention after wading through nearly thirty-five years of public appeals. The campaign to set aside this scenic wonder began as early as 1876 when George Bird Grinnell, Editor of Forest and Stream magazine began documenting the area’s beauty in his publication. When the Audubon Society was established in 1886, Grinnell again intervened to promote the area as one worth preserving for future ages. Despite teaming with Theodore Roosevelt the next year in forming the Boone and Crockett Club, Grinnell’s pleas went unheard.

Finally, when the Great Northern Railroad (GNR) headed westward and started planning a route near the grand mountains about which Grinnell had long been exclaiming, national attention was drawn to the matter. Railroad officials saw the establishment of a national park as a lucrative means of driving traffic and profits to their newly established line, and before long, the GNR was on board with Grinnell’s petitions. Finally, on May 11, 1910, President William Howard Taft signed a Congressional bill that created Glacier National Park. As America’s fourth largest national park, Glacier features 1,000 miles of hiking trails, over 200 lakes, and mile after mile of pristine roadless areas.

Southeastern Montana's Agate Hunting Season Begins!

2005-05-06T15:28:00.000-06:00

Agate hunting is a popular sport along the banks of the Yellowstone River, and it’s a fun way to spend an afternoon. The agates found in this area are popular worldwide, due to their high quality.

Agate is translucent and often has unique patterns imbedded into the interior of the rock. The outside of the rock is rough, and the rock is usually tan or gray in color. Most of the rocks are found in gravel deposits in the hills surrounding the Yellowstone River and on the gravel beds in the river. The Agate hunting season is from early spring through the fall.

Agate is formed when the igneous rock layer cools and leaves behind gas bubbles. The bubbles are later filled with mineral rich water and silica solution that hardens and creates a colored layer. The layers build up creating the agate. The agates found in Montana are often referred to as Montana Moss Agate or Plume agates.

For more information on where to begin your hunt, contact the local area Chambers of Commerce in southeastern Montana (Baker, Broadus, Colstrip, Ekalaka, Forsyth, Glendive, Miles City, North Cheyenne, Terry, or Wibaux) or call Travel Montana at (406) 444-2654. Guided hunts are also available.

Reprinted from “The Ultimate Atlas & Travel Encyclopedia”

Huckleberries

2005-05-04T14:53:00.000-06:00

You won’t get through Montana without seeing huckleberry products. These little gems are made into preserves, candies, syrups, candles lotions and soaps. The huckleberry is very similar to the blueberry, and incredibly sweet and tart at the same time. They have a long history in the northwest. The Native Americans used them as an important source of food, drink, and rich dyes. Because of the huckleberry’s unique flavor and challenge to harvest it has become one of Montana’s hottest commodities and the main ingredient in one of the state’s fastest growing industries.

The huckleberry that grows in the mountains and forests of Montana is special. The berries only grow in the wild on bushes. They won’t bear fruit when transplanted or grown commercially, and availability varies year by year according to the whims of Mother Nature. In order to harvest huckleberries, pickers must go into the high mountain, Montana back country to find the bushes. “Bearing” in mind that huckleberries are a favorite food of grizzly bears, picking these tasty morsels isn’t just hard, but can be darn hazardous.

No one knows just why huckleberry bushes reproduce or what makes one patch of berries good picking one year and not the next. To really enjoy huckleberries for yourself try some of the wonderful products that you’ll see sold throughout the state. During the summer you can often find a special treat of fresh huckleberries for sale at the local farmers markets.

Excerpted from "The Ultimate Montana Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia". For more information about this book visit http://www.ultimatemontana.com

The Cowboy Wave

2005-05-03T09:51:00.000-06:00

Montana is largely rural, and like largely rural states, it is pretty friendly to most who care to be friendly back. When you’re traveling the back roads, particularly the gravel roads, you’ll encounter a variety of waves from passing pickups and motorists.

The most common is the one finger wave, accomplished by simply raising the first finger (not the middle finger as is common in urban areas) from the steering wheel. If the driver is otherwise occupied with his hands or if it is a fairly rough road, you may get a light head nod. Occasionally you may get a two finger wave which often appears as a modified peace sign if the passerby is having a particularly good day. On rare occasions, you may get an all out wave.

The most important things is that whatever wave you get, be sure and wave back.

Excerpted from "The Ultimate Montana Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia"

Bozeman's Turbulent Past

2005-04-26T10:59:00.000-06:00

This Date in History: April 27, 1868

Today, Bozeman may be an ideal Montana community, but the town’s atmosphere hasn’t always been so idyllic. The first few years following the town’s establishment brought conflict with nearby Native American tribes. Although white settlers tended to exaggerate Indian threats across the expanding West, Bozeman’s fears were justified with the presence of a neighboring band of Blackfeet. Recognized for animosity against whites who moved into their territory, the Blackfeet fought against Bozeman’s founding, hoping to force settlers further west while detracting future white men from the area. On April 27, 1868, a Blackfeet war party rode into Bozeman in the middle of the night, raiding the community and escaping with fifteen stolen horses. The raids continued throughout the late 1860s, and military action was summoned to distill resident fears. As a result of the military influence, more than 170 innocent Piegan Indians were slaughtered in January 1870 while the true culprits escaped justice.

Pryor Mountain National Wild Horse Range

2005-04-22T09:09:00.000-06:00

The Pryor Mountain Wild Horse Range was established after a two-year grassroots effort by citizens concerned about the longterm welfare of the Pryor Mountain horses. In 1968, interested individuals and groups convinced Interior Secretary Stewart Udall to set aside 31,000 acres in the Pryor Mountains as a public range for the wild horses. This was the first of its kind in the nation.

Unique Horses
For more than a century, the Pryor Mountains have been home to free-roaming bands of wild horses. This herd of horses is a genetically unique population. Blood typing by the Genetics Department of the University of Kentucky has indicated that these horses are closely related to the old type European Spanish
horse.

As you explore the range, look for horses with unusual coloring which may correspond to their Spanish lineage, such as dun, grulla, blue roan and the rare sabino. Also watch for primitive markings such as a dorsal stripe down their back, wither stripes, and zebra stripes on their legs. These unusual features are considered typical of Spanish characteristics.

So, where did the horses come from? The origins are unclear, but a common belief is that the horses escaped from local Native American Indian herds and eventually found a safe haven in the Pryors. Like many wild horse populations, the Pryor horses live within family groups. As you travel throughout the Range, you may find over 25 family groups and assorted “bachelor” stallions. Most families (or harems) average 5-6 animals, with a dominant stallion, a lead mare, and a variety of other mares and young animals. Horses love to follow a good leader and the Pryor horses are no different. The Pryor stallions seem to make the daily decisions for the rest of the family group, but in other populations mares.

Click here to read more!

The Bozeman Cemetery

2005-04-21T09:29:00.000-06:00

There are few plots of land in Montana that have as much history buried in them as the Bozeman Cemetery. The stories of the individuals buried here—their dreams, achievements, and failures —give us a rich picture not only of Bozeman’s history, but also the history of the West. Learn about the life and death of John Bozeman, Nelson Story, Ellen Trent Story, James D. Chestnut, “Lady” Mary Blackmore, Henry T.P. Comstock, Monroe “Beaver” Nelson, Frank “Doc” Nelson, and Chester R. “Chet” Huntley.

John Bozeman
b. 1835 in Georgia d. 1867
When gold was discovered in Colorado, John Bozeman left Georgia in 1860 and headed West, leaving a wife and three children behind. By 1862 Bozeman had traveled to the gold strike in Bannack in what was to become Montana Territory.

The 1860s were turbulent years in Montana’s history. The successive gold strikes brought thousands of fortune seekers within weeks of each discovery. The rich mining camps were terrorized by thieves and murderers; vigilante committees were organized. Meanwhile, the steady stream of wagon trains through Indian hunting grounds convinced the Sioux and Cheyenne that they must fight to keep their land. Back in the States the Civil War raged, creating tensions between Montana’s Northern and Southern emigrants as well as between Southerners who were Confederate Army veterans and those who had avoided military service. It was indeed, the Wild West.

The mining camps of Bannack and Alder Gulch (Virginia City) were dependent on potatoes and flour freighted in from Salt Lake City 400 miles away. The immensely fertile Gallatin Valley was only 60 miles from Virginia City, and it was here in 1863 that John Bozeman conceived the idea of starting a farming community that could supply the miners. Bozeman guided several wagon trains into the area on a trail that shortened the trip by almost two weeks. Over time, it became known as the Bozeman Trail, but after 1864 his energy went into fostering the growth of his town site.

John Bozeman did not fit the typical image of the frontiersman in fringed buckskins. Various contemporaries described him as over six-feet tall, strong, brave, handsome, kind, stalwart, and tireless, with “the looks and ways of a manly man.” He was a Southern gentleman, a well dressed Beau Brummel, and no doubt a heart throb.

He was murdered in 1867, only three years after the establishment of the town of Bozeman. While on a trip with Tom Cover to solicit business for the town’s flour mill, he was shot on the banks of the Yellowstone River. The accepted story has been that he was murdered by Blackfeet Indians, but inconsistencies in the information have over time resulted in a mystery that variously points the finger of blame at Tom Cover (an interesting individual who was himself
murdered under mysterious circumstances years later) or at a jealous husband of one of the few women in town.

John Bozeman’s death insured the survival of his town. Fear of Indian attacks led to the establishment in 1867 of Fort Ellis three miles east of the town which provided both protection and a ready market for Bozeman’s farms and merchants. Bozeman’s remains were returned to the town three years later. His friend, fellow Georgian William McKenzie, died in 1913 and is buried next to him.

Nelson Story
b. 1838 in Ohio d. 1926

Click here to read more!

Heading to Montana?

2005-04-21T09:26:00.000-06:00

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Jurassic Park III

2005-04-20T08:58:00.000-06:00

A few years ago, Bozeman hosted the world premiere of Jurassic Park III. The model for actor Sam Neills character is Bozeman’s own Jack Horner, world famous paleontologist and curator of paleontology at the Museum of the Rockies in Bozeman. In one of the early scenes actress Laura Dern mentions she’s using Horner as a source for her latest book. The next scene supposedly takes place at Fort Peck Lake in eastern Montana. In it, actor Neill is driving a Museum of the Rockies vehicle. Horner was the technical advisor for this movie as he was for the two previous JP thrillers.

The Establishment of Montana State University

2005-04-14T08:26:00.000-06:00

This Date in History: April 17, 1893

On April 17, 1893, the long-awaited Agricultural College of Montana opened its Bozeman doors for the first time. Featuring just four faculty members and eight students, the land grant school did not have time to construct any campus buildings before the required operational date of July 1, 1893. As a result, the college’s classes were held in a leased roller skating rink in downtown Bozeman. Although the Agricultural College started out on rocky footings, it eventually garnered a strong reputation, an established campus, and a new distinction as Montana State University. Today, the state university encompasses 1,170 acres in the heart of the Gallatin Valley and features a myriad of both undergraduate and graduate programs. The school’s popularity has significantly grown as well with 694 full-time and 303 part-time faculty serving the needs of over 12,000 total students.

Montana's Crazy Mountains

2005-04-12T09:47:00.000-06:00

Rising jaggedly against the horizon near Grey Cliff and Big Timber, the Crazy Mountains are a scenic landmark on Interstate 90. Called Awaxaawippiia by the Apsaalooka (Crow) Indians, the Crazy Mountains are an igneous formation forged about 50 million years ago. For the Apsaalooka, they are the most sacred and revered mountains on the northern Great Plains. Awaxaawippiia was a place of refuge and protection. The Apsaalooka’s enemies would not follow them into the mountains. Because of their great spiritual power, Awaxaawippiia continues to be an important vision quest site for the tribe. Famed Chief Plenty Coups had a vision there in 1857 in which, he said, the end of the plains Indian way-of-life was shown to him.

There are several stories about how the mountains received their current name. The most popular story indicates that a woman traveling across the lonely plains with a wagon train went insane. She escaped from the party and was found near these mountains. So they were called the Crazy Woman Mountains, a name which was eventually shortened. Perhaps the mountains were named, as others have claimed, because of their crazy appearance.

However they received their title, it is an undisputed fact that the Crazy Mountains were an important landmark for Bozeman Trail emigrants in the Yellowstone Valley. This district was great cow and sheep country in the days of the open range, and there are still a number of large ranches in the vicinity, though now under fence. Today, the mountains also provide a recreational sanctuary for backcountry enthusiasts to retreat into one of Montana’s many wild places.

Partially reprinted from “The Ultimate Montana Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia”

Hot Springs: Soaking Away the Winter Blahs

2005-04-05T11:08:00.000-06:00

Situated in northwestern Montana, the community of Hot Springs is aptly named after its abundance of hot mineral springs and mud baths. The local Indians and settlers believed the natural waters and hot mud had healing powers. There are three locations where you can indulge yourself and soak away your mental and physical aches and pains.

One location is at the edge of town. It was originally called Camas Hot Springs and is owned by the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes. The springs receive little upkeep, but they are free. This site includes two hot water plunges, each roughly three feet deep. There is also a gazebo with a shallow mud bath in which visitors can soak. Known as the “corn hole” this mud foot bath is rumored to remove corns by soaking your feet for several hours in it. There are no lifeguards here and alcohol of any sort is prohibited. There is a public restroom equipped with water hoses to wash off the mud.

If you want to move upscale a notch for your soaks, try the historic Symes Hotel in town. They have baths and a new outdoor mineral swimming pool and spa which are open to the public for a small admission charge.

Near Hot Springs off of Highway 28 is the Wild Horse Hot Springs. Here you can rent private rooms with plunges and steam saunas and restrooms by the hour.

Call the Hot Springs Chamber of Commerce at 741-2662 for more information.

Reprinted from “The Ultimate Montana Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia.”

Calamity Jane: The West's Most Wild Female

2005-03-28T13:47:00.000-07:00

Calamity Jane was born Martha Jane Canary, in Princeton, Missouri in 1852, the oldest of six children. As a child she was a tomboy and had a passion for riding horses. In 1865, at the age of 13 the Cannary family made the five month journey, stopping in Virginia City, to take part in the quest for gold on their way to Salt Lake City. During their migration Martha practiced hunting with the men, and by the time they reached Virginia City, she was an accomplished rider and gun handler.

From 1866 on, she and her family moved around quite a bit-to Salt Lake City where her father died the next year, and then onto Wyoming where she helped scout for the army. During her travels she worked when she could find it, and even took up prostitution, although she always seemed to prefer men’s work.

In the early 1870s Martha Jane Cannary was christened “Calamity Jane,” known for her reckless daring riding and good aim. In 1876 Calamity Jane crossed paths with Wild Bill Hickok, and they remained good friends, (she told some they were married) until his death. She was known for causing a bit of trouble by stirring up the occasional saloon fight, and was said to have had a problem with alcoholism. Calamity Jane moved around most of her life and found it difficult to settle in one place. She did however spend some time in Montana, residing in Livingston for a period, and outside of Laurel where her cabins still stand today. She also called Big Timber, Castle, and Harlowton home for brief periods. When she died in 1903 at the age of 51, Calamity Jane was buried, at her request, next to Wild Bill in Deadwood, South Dakota.

Reprinted from “The Ultimate Montana Atlas and Travel Encylopedia.”

Montana’s Most Notorious Labor Strike

2005-03-23T09:20:00.000-07:00

This Date in History: March 29, 1968

In 1967 and 1968, Butte was home to the longest and costliest labor strike in Montana history. Fed up with poor wages and nearly non-existent benefits, 7,200 Anaconda Company copper miners walked off the job on July 14, 1967. Despite labor relations meetings and desperate attempts to draw the employees back to work, Butte’s copper mines sat idle for 250 days. On March 29, 1968, the state’s most notorious labor strike finally ended when workers voted three to one for a settlement. The company agreed to gradually phase in salary increases of fifty cents an hour, as well as increases in health insurance, disability, pension, and unemployment insurance. As an extra bonus, the company agreed to pay workers’ medical expenses that were incurred during the strike.

Although some miners stayed in Butte to wait out the strike on the picket lines, many left Butte in search of temporary employment. It is estimated that workers traveled to at least fifteen other states during the strike in an effort to make up the more than $34 million they lost in wages during the company strike. Within days of the strike’s end, workers were back on the job site, but it took months before the deteriorated mining equipment was back up and running efficiently.

Vacationing in Montana?

2005-03-23T09:18:00.000-07:00

Montana Trivia

2005-03-15T10:19:00.000-07:00

Big Sky Resort

Famous newscaster, Chet Huntley, was the driving force behind the construction of the Big Sky Ski Resort. He was born in Cardwell, Montana and died only three days before the grand opening of the resort.

Reprinted from “The Ultimate Montana Atlas & Travel Encyclopedia
http://www.ultimatemontana.com

The Flathead Monster

2005-03-14T08:59:00.000-07:00

If you think Scotland has a lock on lake monsters, you might be surprised to find Montana has its own version of “Nessie” in Flathead Lake. The monster was first spotted in 1889 by passengers of the lake steamer US Grant who first thought it to be an approaching boat. A passenger toting a rifle fired at it. He missed but did scare it (whatever it was) away. Since then, scores of people have viewed the creature. Sightings were documented in the early 1900s, 1912, 1919, 1922-23, 1934,1937, 1939 and regularly in every decade until today.

One of the more notable accounts came from a Polson couple and their four children on July 10, 1949. They reported a big fish near the Narrows. The fish appeared approximately 150 feet from them and had about a six foot length of its back visible. For over 30 seconds they watched it as it swam southeasterly leaving a wake 6” to 8” high as it slowly sank beneath the surface. They believed it to be a 10 to 12-foot long sturgeon. The man later became a chairman of the Montana State Fish and Game Commission.

1993 holds the record for the most sightings—nine in all. On July 13, near Woods Bay, a Seattle bank officer and a district sales manager actually managed to get some video footage of the creature. The video shows a dark shape on the surface. The sales manager swears he saw the eye’s of the monster before they were able to get the tape rolling. He described it as the head of a sturgeon, but the body of a large eel at least 12 feet long. On July 29 in the early afternoon, a vacationing Illinois policeman, his wife, and three children saw “Nessie” surface about 50 yards from their boat in calm waters near Wild Horse Island. The monster appeared to be following a school of bait-sized fish. The policeman described the creature as shiny with shiny humps, about 15 to 20 feet in length, and with a bowling ball-sized head. He claimed it looked like two seals swimming.

There seems to be no consistency to where or when “Nessie” will show. The creature has appeared at all times of the year, in all parts of the lake. Sightings of the creature have been reported by all manner of people—teachers, professionals, farmers, ranchers, military officers, law enforcement officers, business people, mill workers, and tourists of all ages.

There was a time when folks thought the mystery was solved. On May 28, 1955, the late C. Leslie Griffith claimed he snagged a big sturgeon near Dayton on the western side of the lake. He finally managed to gaff it several miles downlake near Big Arm State Park, after fighting it for nearly five hours. Not everyone believed his story. Some believe the 7-1/2 foot,181 lb. white sturgeon was trucked in from somewhere else. The giant fish can be seen in the Polson Flathead Historical Museum today. Griffith did swear in court under oath that the fish was caught in Flathead Lake. A dispute later arose between Griffith and Big Fish Unlimited Inc. as to ownership of the fish and distribution of money from showing it. The case went all the way to the Montana Supreme Court. BFU retained ownership but had to give Griffith a cut of the proceeds.

Despite Griffith’s catch, sightings have continued throughout the following decades. Myth or reality? Most agree that Montana’s mysterious version of the Lochness Monster is a tale worth believing. Do you believe?

Reprinted from “The Ultimate Montana Atlas & Travel Encyclopedia”
http://www.ultimatemontana.com

Medicine Rocks State Park

2005-03-11T14:09:00.000-07:00

25 miles south of Baker on Montana Highway 7
(406) 230-0900

In the late 1800s, Teddy Roosevelt said the area was “as fantastically beautiful a place as I have ever seen.” Covering one square mile, Medicine Rocks was referred to by the Sioux Indians as “Rock with Hole In It” due to the tunnels and holes burrowed in the stone. They also called it “Medicine Butte” and believed that this was a sacred area where spirits resided. The medicine man often prayed here, but it is said that the tribe itself camped on the outskirts. The sandstone formations have been created by years of weathering. Carved by the wind into odd shapes, some of the pillars tower 80 feet above the pine-clad prairie. Millions of years ago a flood plain flowed through these high plains, and as the climates changed sandstone was created. Many fossils are embedded in the rock formations, telling a story of the past. Indian artifacts can be seen ranging from tepee rings to a few rock drawings. The area is known for its abundant wildlife, including deer, pronghorn antelope, grouse, pheasants, bass and bluegill.

The Rocks
Medicine Rocks State Park manifests but a small portion of a complex sequence of geological events that took place some 50 million years ago. At that time, a huge inland lake covered much of the Northern Great Plains. The climate was warm and tropical. This was the age of the mammal, for the giant lizard-like dinosaur had already succumbed to changes in its environment. The swampy, forested margins of this huge, ancient sea teemed with mollusks (clams and other forms of ocean life), turtles and small mammals, as well as palm trees, water lillies and other vegetation. Fossils, or the preserved remains attesting to the existence of prehistoric plants and animals, have been found in the rocky formations of the park.

Cutting through the lush swamps were slowmoving, shallow, silt-laden rivers. These rivers, resembling present day waterways in the southeastern United States, transported sediments from the newly forming Rocky Mountains to the west. Some of these sediments were deposited as sandbars and channel deposits. Medicine Rocks represents the fossilized river channel of one of these ancient streams. Through the ensuing ages, the climate changed. Dryer conditions caused the inland sea to retreat, leaving the continent high and dry. Some streams dried, others changed their courses. Compaction, great pressure and eons of time turned the sediments to sandstone.

Some parts of the sandstone were cemented together more solidly than other areas, making them harder and more weather resistant. Over the ages wind, water, and temperature extremes constantly wore away the rock. The more resistant materials survived this weathering process, called erosion, and are the knobs and pillars we view today.

The park’s formations owe their grossly pockmarked features to natural and dynamic events, for it is the selective weathering process that gives the rock a Swiss cheese-like effect. Geologic processes are at work today just as they were millions of years ago. Pounding wind, runoff from snowmelt and rain, and freezing and thawing action continuously eats away at the land, giving shape, form and life-like qualities to the Medicine Rocks.

There are approximately 15 camping sites with vault toilets, a group-use area, grills/fire rings, picnic tables, and drinking water. The RV/trailer size limit is 20’ and campers may stay 14 days during a 30-day period. Due to its “Primitive” park designation, it is a pack-in/pack-out site and there are no fees to enter or stay there. The park is open all year. For more information, call 232-4365 in the area.

Reprinted from The Ultimate Montana Travel Atlas and Encyclopedia. http://ultimatemontana.com

A Stand-off with Montana's Free Thinkers

2005-03-10T17:03:00.000-07:00

This Date in History: March 25, 1996

After two frustrating years dealing with the Freemen organization’s anti-government philosophies, FBI agents arrested three Freemen near Brusett, Montana (north of Jordan). The arrest infuriated the Freemen organization and initiated an eighty-one day siege at the group’s isolated headquarters. The nearly three-month standoff was a constant national news item, casting a negative limelight on Montana and its residents. Many newspapers, magazines, and television shows poked fun at the state’s residents, broadly calling all Montanans gun-loving, anti-government loonies. The situation was only made worse when isolated Lincoln resident, Ted Kacynski, was arrested and charged as the Unabomber. Although Montana continued to receive its fair share of criticism for harboring radical thinkers, the attention finally dissipated a few months later.