Montana in and of itself is a natural playground catering to year-round recreationists. Lakes, rivers, forests, and mountains combine to create one of America’s finest outdoor settings, and Montana takes advantage of these outdoor jewels in several designated recreation areas. From swimming to fishing to picnicing, the following must-see recreation areas provide something fun for everyone!
Pattee Canyon Recreation Area
The large picnic area and system of roads and trails make Pattee Canyon one of the most popular recreation areas close to Missoula.
Facilities
The picnic area includes tables, fire rings, toilets (some handicapped accessible), parking and group Picnic facilities, but no running water, electricity or shelters. Three group picnic sites, with their extra large tables, extra grills, and parking lots, can accommodate from 40 to 200 people. Arrangements for using the group sites are made through the Missoula Ranger District office at 329-3814. Volunteer hosts are on duty in the picnic area during the summer. The Pattee Canyon Recreation Area is day use only.
Trails & Roads
The extensive year-round system of trails and roads is open to non motorized use. A person can get all the way from the picnic area to the Clark Fork river on these trails and roads. During winter some of the trails, like the Southside Ski Trail, are groomed and maintained for crosscountry skiing. The groomed trails north of the road were developed in the 1980s by the Missoula Nordic Ski Club and the Forest Service. Not all ski trails are groomed. The 3 1/2-mile long Sam Braxton National Recreation trail is an ungroomed loop featuring big, old trees and pretty views. In the 1970s, Sam Braxton and the University of Montana Ski Team developed a network of cross-country ski trails near the Larch Camp Road. These trails are no longer used.
Natural History
Besides being so close to town, the reason Pattee Canyon is so popular is because of its big, old trees. Most are ponderosa pine, or “yellow pine,” the Montana state tree. Photographs and surveys from the late 1800s show open, sunny meadows with a few big trees, large ponderosa pines spaced from 25 to 50 feet apart, with little but grass growing under them. A survey conducted between 1870 and 1900 recorded trees up to 5 feet in diameter! Research has shown that since at least the mid-1500s, low-intensity ground fires have burned this area about once every seven years. These ground fires killed brush and young trees, but the thick bark of the yellow pines protected them from serious harm. The ground fires have produced a “fire-dependent old-growth” condition here.
When people started fighting fires at the turn of the century, the ecology of this area changed. It’s been invaded by brush and Douglas-fir. The brush and young trees are a fire danger to the old trees, because they serve as fire ladders, leading ground fire into the tops of the mature trees, where it can kill them.
In 1977, the 1,200-acre Pattee Canyon fire killed many of the old trees in its path. This human caused fire burned intensely hot, largely because of all the brush and small tree fuels feeding it. You can see the result from Missoula, a large burned-over area at the southeast edge of town.
Human History
• “Es Nin Paks.” The Nez Perce and Salish Indians used Pattee Canyon on their way to the plains for buffalo hunting. The Native Americans called it “es nin paks,” the crooked trail. They used it as a detour to avoid ambush by Blackfeet warriors in the narrow Hellgate Canyon of the Clark Fork River, where Interstate 90 now leads into Missoula.
• David Pattee. The Canyon takes its present name from David Pattee, who in 1871 filed a homestead claim on some land near the mouth of the canyon. In 1856, he came to the Bitterroot Valley from New Hampshire, to rebuild saw- and gristmills owned by Major John Owen. (The Fort Owen State Monument at Stevensville is named after him.) Pattee was active in several local businesses, but sold out and moved to Tacoma in 1878.
• Army timber reserve. In 1877, the US Army started building Fort Missoula. Since some of the largest trees in the area grew at the top of Pattee Canyon, it set aside a timber reserve of some 1,600 acres here. The old timber reserve is the basis of this recreation area. The Army pushed logging roads up every drainage and draw. The main road, now used as a trail, turned north up Crazy Canyon. In the 1920s, the Army built a rifle range in the meadow at the pass. The long loop of the Meadow Loop Trail goes around the old rifle range, where earthen backstops and concrete foundations still can be seen. The range was closed in 1945.
Opportunities & Facilities
• Picnics
• Toilets (some handicapped accessible)
• Hiking
• Horseback Riding
• Jogging and running
• Bicycling
• Cross-country skiing
• Group picnics by permit only - call 329-3814
• Picnic area gate open from 9 am until sundown daily from Memorial Day until Labor Day
• Campfires allowed in facilities provided
• All trail open to a variety of uses yearlong, but no motorized vehicles allowed off roads
• Day use only, no overnight camping
• Shooting firearms and fireworks prohibited
• No running water or electricity available. Leave No Trace.
Blue Mountain Recreation Area
There are three major access points off this road:
• The trailhead for the National Recreation Trail, about 1/2 mile north on Blue Mountain Road.
• Forest Road #365, turns left off Blue Mountain Road about 1.4 miles from Highway 93 South.
• Maclay Flat turnoff, on the right about 1.5 miles from Highway 93 South.
The Recreation Area
Located just two miles west of Missoula, Blue Mountain Recreation Area is a great place to explore. Once a U.S. Army Military Reservation, the 5,500 acres of valley bottom and mountain top became part of the Lolo National Forest in 1952. In 1975, a number of civic groups joined the Forest Service in a major clean-up project. Abandoned vehicles and garbage were removed, a system of trails was built, and regulations were established to protect people from indiscriminate shooting. In 1986, Blue Mountain was formally designated a Recreation Area.
Maclay Flat Trails
At the base of Blue Mountain, two connecting loop trails at Maclay Flat offer an easy stroll through open grasslands and ponderosa pine. Parallel to the Bitterroot River, these trails (1-1/4 and 1-3/4 miles long) feature interpretive signs, benches, and wide wheelchair friendly paths. Maclay Flat also has picnic tables and wheel chair accessible toilets. Be considerate of other users and wildlife in the area. If you bring a dog, bring and use a leash.
Mountain Trails
• Blue Mountain National Recreation Trail — 8 miles long. This trail is for hiking and horses. Vehicles and mountain bikes are prohibited!
• Blue Mountain Nature Trail — 1/4-mile-long loop trail. Wheelchair accessible up to the viewpoint. Information about the numbered posts along the trail is contained in a separate brochure, available at the trailhead or the Missoula Ranger District office.
Scenic Drive/Fire Lookout
A rare sight awaits those who travel to the top of Blue Mountain: a working Forest Service lookout. Open from spring through fall—depending on snow conditions—and suitable for passenger cars and trucks, the mountain’s gravelled road offers an easy climb and some great views of the Missoula valley and distant peaks.
During fire season, Blue Mountain visitors can climb the 50-foot lookout for a personal tour. Safety regulations, however, limit visitors to three at a time. Hours are 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Remember, the lookout staff is on duty—the job of watching out for fires must come first! Please don’t disturb this important work. To reach the lookout, take Road #365 almost to the top, then continue on Road #2137 to the peak. Note: Road #2137 is open mainly in July and August.
Camping and Campfires
Camping and campfires are allowed beginning 4.5 miles up the mountain, west of Road #365.
Reprinted from U.S. Forest Service brochure
James Kipp Recreation Area
US Hwy. 191 near Robinson Bridge. 538-746
This is a key access point for the Upper Missouri National Wild & Scenic River. For centuries, Native Americans were attracted to this area to gather plants and hunt game. The Ancient camps and bison kill sites here are evidence of human dependence along the river corridor. Lewis and Clark and their Corps of Discovery passed here on May 24, 1805, during the second year of their adventure. They camped just 2-1/2 miles down river. The members of the expedition averaged about 13 miles a day by sailing, poling, and mostly pulling their boats upriver against the formidable currents. In July, 1806, Captain Lewis and his party returned down the Missouri through this area.
Few names stand out in Missouri River history better than James Kipp. Born in Montreal in 1788, he was a fort builder, fur trader, and steamboat captain. In 1831, he established Fort Piegan near Loma, 128 river miles upstream from this spot. It was the first American Fur Company trading post established on the Missouri west of Fort Union. He made the return trip the following spring with more than 4,000 beaver pelts and other furs in tow. After 41 years in the fur trade business, he retired in 1859.
Today, this stretch of the Upper Missouri is a national treasure under the careful stewardship of government agencies and private landowners. 149 miles upriver to Fort Benton is designated as a National Wild and Scenic River. Downriver to Fort Peck, the land surrounding the river forms the heart of the C.M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge.
The Pines Recreation Area
MT Hwy. 24 N., Fort Peck
The outstanding features of this recreation area are the tall ponderosa pine trees. This unique campground on the Fork Peck Lake offers a wilderness experience with the conveniences of a shelter building, fire grill, potable water, toilets, boat ramp, and access to untamed beaches.
Kobayashi Beach on Ennis Lake
McAllister. 683-2337
Ennis Lake is relatively shallow and acts like a giant solar collector. The waters in the lake can heat up to 85ยบ (the temperature of a very warm swimming pool) in the summertime making it a great place to swim. Kobayashi Beach is a favorite locals hangout. Its sandy beach is managed by the BLM for Montana Power Company. It’s easy to find and makes a great place to take a break from traveling. At the tiny town of McAllister just north of Ennis, take the road heading east out of town for a little over 3 miles. After you pass through a housing area, you will see the signed beach.
Partially reprinted from The Ultimate Montana Atlas & Travel Encyclopedia
Friday, July 29, 2005
Thursday, July 28, 2005
An Angler’s Guide to Paradise Valley
Written by: Matthew Long of Long Outfitting
As fishing has grown in popularity, so has the desire to fish in the northern gateway to Yellowstone Park, Paradise Valley. The majestic mountains seem to have an overpowering effect to draw anglers from around the globe to its abundance of blue ribbon trout fisheries. The valley, 50 miles in length, offers dozens of opportunities to fish for trout of various species and sizes, in a variety of waters from the mighty Yellowstone River to remote alpine lakes. A bit of exploration by an angler, or a day of fishing with one of the area’s professional guides can make for a successful and pleasant outing. The following brief descriptions of some of the area’s most popular fisheries are designed to lead you in the proper direction in relation to the
type of water you desire to fish, the species and size of trout you would like to catch, and the amount of money you would like to spend.
The Yellowstone River
By far, the most popular of all the angling activities is a float trip down the Yellowstone River. This wild and scenic river provides anglers with over 60 miles of floatable, fishable water in Paradise Valley. Some of the sections throughout the valley support up to 1,000 fish per mile. Do not overlook the sections upstream in Yellowstone Park and downstream towards Big
Timber, though. These areas hold excellent populations of larger trout. The types of water, as well as the speciation of the trout change rapidly
throughout the rivers length.
Depending on the time of the year, trout will feed on various orders of insects. Spring and fall provide excellent mayfly and midge hatches, while the hot, dry summer days make for excellent terrestrial and caddis action.
Take a comfortable drift boat down the river, or use one of the public access areas to gain access for wade fishing. Remember that once you have legally gained access to the river, everything below the high-water mark is public property. The most effective way to fish this large river is to hire a guide and cover a lot of water in a drift boat. Look for the pods of trout
in back eddies containing foam lines and on deeper shelves off of cut banks and current seams. Yellowstone River trout usually average between 10 and 18 inches.
The Spring Creeks
For the discriminating fly fisherman, the spring creeks are among the most famous in the world. Located in the northern end of Paradise Valley and minutes from Livingston, Montana, Armstrongs, Depuys, and Nelsons spring creeks are a convenient and popular destination. Gin clear water, prolific, complex hatches, and tricky currents all combine to make for a challenging, yet hopefully rewarding day. Breathtaking views of the lush weed beds, dimpling trout, and white-tailed deer combined with the backdrop of the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness to the east and the Gallatin Mountains to the west offer picturesque moments.
Catching trout here is anything but easy. Reading the feeding trout, matching the hatch, floating perfect drifts, and presenting accurate casts all can increase your odds of taking these selective trout. Brown, rainbow, and cutthroat trout can all be found in the privately-owned spring creeks.
All the streams are managed as fee fishing areas and have limited access to insure a quality experience for all of the anglers. Rod dates book early, and it is wise to call in advance. Approximate cost per fisherman is $75.00 per
day. Some local fly shops reserve extra rods for client’s use, so don’t be afraid to stop in and ask questions. Despite all the rumors about the damage done by the floods of 1996 and 1997, the creeks fish just as well now as before.
Private Lakes
Another option that fly fishermen often take advantage of, especially during the snow-melt run-off, are the numerous private lakes located in Paradise Valley. Fishing these still waters often produces large trout in the 14-25 inch range. Some of these lakes can be fished effectively from shore, while others are large enough to require the use of a drift boat or float tube. Some lakes require fishermen to be accompanied by a guide, while others just require a daily access rate.
Often times, fish can be caught on a variety of fly patterns from tiny midge to large leeches. The famous damsel hatch in mid-July is a wonderful time to fish dry flies. Just to give you an example of the quality of some of these fisheries, Merrell Lake, located in Tom Miner Basin, has been rated by Fly Fisherman Magazine as one of the top six privately owned lakes in North
America. This is a pretty impressive status for a 90-acre trout lake in the heart of Paradise Valley.
Other local lakes can produce some great fishing for very large rainbow, cutthroat, and brown trout. Check with a Livingston fly shop on access and price information. Prices range from $50 per angler, while others are free when fishing with a guide.
Alpine Lakes and Small Tributaries
For the fisherman who likes to get away to a “less traveled to” location, many small tributaries to the Yellowstone River and the high-altitude lakes of the Absaroka and Gallatin ranges can provide solitude, serenity and excellent fishing. Many of the fish are small, but are eager to feed on flies and are certainly some of the feistier fish you will ever encounter.
A topographic map can help you locate some destinations including Mill Creek, Big Creek, Rock Creek, Tom Miner Creek, Bear Creek, Emerald Lake, Thompson Lake, Shelf Lake, and Ramshorn Lake. There are too many of these small streams and lakes to even begin to list them all. Take your hiking shoes and some bear spray, and check your fishing regulation
book before going on your trek. Some of these lakes are in Yellowstone Park, and some are located in forest service and wilderness areas.
It is easy to see how Paradise Valley has received its name. For anglers, it is truly an angling paradise. For non-anglers, it is a geological and wildlife paradise. Come see for yourself the impressive scenery and the awesome fishing south of Livingston. Fond memories and feeding trout await your arrival.
For more information on fishing Paradise Valley, contact:
Matthew Long
(406) 222-6775;
Email: longoutfit@ycsi.net;
Internet: www.longoutfitting.com
Reprinted from The Ultimate Montana Travel Atlas & Encylopedia
As fishing has grown in popularity, so has the desire to fish in the northern gateway to Yellowstone Park, Paradise Valley. The majestic mountains seem to have an overpowering effect to draw anglers from around the globe to its abundance of blue ribbon trout fisheries. The valley, 50 miles in length, offers dozens of opportunities to fish for trout of various species and sizes, in a variety of waters from the mighty Yellowstone River to remote alpine lakes. A bit of exploration by an angler, or a day of fishing with one of the area’s professional guides can make for a successful and pleasant outing. The following brief descriptions of some of the area’s most popular fisheries are designed to lead you in the proper direction in relation to the
type of water you desire to fish, the species and size of trout you would like to catch, and the amount of money you would like to spend.
The Yellowstone River
By far, the most popular of all the angling activities is a float trip down the Yellowstone River. This wild and scenic river provides anglers with over 60 miles of floatable, fishable water in Paradise Valley. Some of the sections throughout the valley support up to 1,000 fish per mile. Do not overlook the sections upstream in Yellowstone Park and downstream towards Big
Timber, though. These areas hold excellent populations of larger trout. The types of water, as well as the speciation of the trout change rapidly
throughout the rivers length.
Depending on the time of the year, trout will feed on various orders of insects. Spring and fall provide excellent mayfly and midge hatches, while the hot, dry summer days make for excellent terrestrial and caddis action.
Take a comfortable drift boat down the river, or use one of the public access areas to gain access for wade fishing. Remember that once you have legally gained access to the river, everything below the high-water mark is public property. The most effective way to fish this large river is to hire a guide and cover a lot of water in a drift boat. Look for the pods of trout
in back eddies containing foam lines and on deeper shelves off of cut banks and current seams. Yellowstone River trout usually average between 10 and 18 inches.
The Spring Creeks
For the discriminating fly fisherman, the spring creeks are among the most famous in the world. Located in the northern end of Paradise Valley and minutes from Livingston, Montana, Armstrongs, Depuys, and Nelsons spring creeks are a convenient and popular destination. Gin clear water, prolific, complex hatches, and tricky currents all combine to make for a challenging, yet hopefully rewarding day. Breathtaking views of the lush weed beds, dimpling trout, and white-tailed deer combined with the backdrop of the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness to the east and the Gallatin Mountains to the west offer picturesque moments.
Catching trout here is anything but easy. Reading the feeding trout, matching the hatch, floating perfect drifts, and presenting accurate casts all can increase your odds of taking these selective trout. Brown, rainbow, and cutthroat trout can all be found in the privately-owned spring creeks.
All the streams are managed as fee fishing areas and have limited access to insure a quality experience for all of the anglers. Rod dates book early, and it is wise to call in advance. Approximate cost per fisherman is $75.00 per
day. Some local fly shops reserve extra rods for client’s use, so don’t be afraid to stop in and ask questions. Despite all the rumors about the damage done by the floods of 1996 and 1997, the creeks fish just as well now as before.
Private Lakes
Another option that fly fishermen often take advantage of, especially during the snow-melt run-off, are the numerous private lakes located in Paradise Valley. Fishing these still waters often produces large trout in the 14-25 inch range. Some of these lakes can be fished effectively from shore, while others are large enough to require the use of a drift boat or float tube. Some lakes require fishermen to be accompanied by a guide, while others just require a daily access rate.
Often times, fish can be caught on a variety of fly patterns from tiny midge to large leeches. The famous damsel hatch in mid-July is a wonderful time to fish dry flies. Just to give you an example of the quality of some of these fisheries, Merrell Lake, located in Tom Miner Basin, has been rated by Fly Fisherman Magazine as one of the top six privately owned lakes in North
America. This is a pretty impressive status for a 90-acre trout lake in the heart of Paradise Valley.
Other local lakes can produce some great fishing for very large rainbow, cutthroat, and brown trout. Check with a Livingston fly shop on access and price information. Prices range from $50 per angler, while others are free when fishing with a guide.
Alpine Lakes and Small Tributaries
For the fisherman who likes to get away to a “less traveled to” location, many small tributaries to the Yellowstone River and the high-altitude lakes of the Absaroka and Gallatin ranges can provide solitude, serenity and excellent fishing. Many of the fish are small, but are eager to feed on flies and are certainly some of the feistier fish you will ever encounter.
A topographic map can help you locate some destinations including Mill Creek, Big Creek, Rock Creek, Tom Miner Creek, Bear Creek, Emerald Lake, Thompson Lake, Shelf Lake, and Ramshorn Lake. There are too many of these small streams and lakes to even begin to list them all. Take your hiking shoes and some bear spray, and check your fishing regulation
book before going on your trek. Some of these lakes are in Yellowstone Park, and some are located in forest service and wilderness areas.
It is easy to see how Paradise Valley has received its name. For anglers, it is truly an angling paradise. For non-anglers, it is a geological and wildlife paradise. Come see for yourself the impressive scenery and the awesome fishing south of Livingston. Fond memories and feeding trout await your arrival.
For more information on fishing Paradise Valley, contact:
Matthew Long
(406) 222-6775;
Email: longoutfit@ycsi.net;
Internet: www.longoutfitting.com
Reprinted from The Ultimate Montana Travel Atlas & Encylopedia
Thursday, July 21, 2005
Riding the Hiawatha Mountain Bike Trail
Imagine mountain biking a 15-mile historic railbed trail through cavernous train tunnels, across sky high train trestles, past sparkling mountain creeks with deer, elk, moose and endless views of the towering Bitterroots. The best part is—it’s all downhill!
Located just off I-90 on the Idaho / Montana border, The Route of the Hiawatha is a scenic section of abandoned rail-bed from the “Milwaukee Road” that the Taft Tunnel Preservation Society, Silver Country, and the U.S. Forest Service have turned into a world class non-motorized trail in the area around the Montana and Idaho Border. In fact, this stretch has been called one of the most breathtaking scenic stretches of railroad in the country. This adventurous 13 mile trail takes mountain bikers (and hikers) through 10 cavernous tunnels and over 7 sky high trestles. The first tunnel you pass through is the 1.8 mile long Taft Tunnel reopened in 2001. This tunnel burrows 1.66 miles under the Idaho-Montana border The trail is operated and maintained by the Taft Tunnel Preservation Society with fees collected from all users. A shuttle bus can transport you and your bike between trail heads.
Trail Fees - Adults; Children (3-13)
Day Use: $7.00; $3.00
Season Pass: $25.00; $20.00
Shuttle Bus: $9.00; $6.00 (one way)
Helmets: (required) $6.00
Lights: $4.00
Helmet & Lights: $9.00
Bike Rentals: $22 & $26 (comfort suspension)
$16 for child’s bikes & trailers
Rentals are located at Lookout Pass Ski Area.
Shuttle Service
Weekday shuttle service: 11 A.M. to 4:15 P.M.
Weekend shuttle service: 11 A.M. to 5:45 P.M.
Weekends only after Sept 4: 12:00 P.M. to 5:15 P.M.
Children under 14 years of age require adult supervision. Helmets & lights required. No dogs or pets allowed.
The Hiawatha shuttle will run between the top and bottom of the trail throughout the days scheduled. Tickets, rentals and guided tours: Call 208-744-1301. www.skilookout.com/bike_home_page.html
Getting There: Take the Taft Exit (5) and turn south. Following the signs to the parking area. Representatives will meet you there to sell you permit and shuttle service.
The Route of the Hiawatha
In 1905, The Milwaukee and St. Paul Railway began looking for a route for their western extension over the Bitterroot Mountains. After five and a half months, exploring 930 miles, the railroad chose a route over St. Paul Pass. In laying out the route from the St. Paul Pass Tunnel the surveyors planned a line descending at a 1.7% gradient along the mountain slope. A big
consideration in choosing this route was the potential for future traffic. This route down the St. Joe River offered exclusive access to huge quantities of old growth white pine and cedar timber. Interpretive sign on trail.
The Last Transcontinental Railroad
The Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Railway’s Pacific Extension survived for 71 colorful years. Racing silk trains sped along the route, and long, rumbling troop trains carried men and materiel through four wars. The Milwaukee’s famed electric locomotives hosted presidents and celebrities and showcased the streamlined Olympian Hiawatha passenger train. The Route of the Hiawatha Rail-Trail, traces the most costly and difficult to build section of the railroad from Chicago to Tacoma. Today, thousands enjoy traveling over this scenic, historic trail helping keep alive the spirit of the Milwaukee Road.
The trail follows the trains and historians trace the history along the trail. When the Milwaukee Road abandoned its route over the Bitterroot Mountains, salvage companies striped the line of all the rails, ties, signals posts and everything else of value. The small fragments left behind are the remains of one of America’s proudest railroads. From 1907 to 1911 thousands of people lived, worked and played in this secluded part of the Bitterroot Mountains. They constructed a railroad while leaving faint signs of their own passing. Today you may see archaeologists digging and sifting along the Route of the Hiawatha Trail looking for clues about people and places not found in written documents. Historical research and archaeological field work helps breate life into the history of the Milwaukee Road years. Interpretive sign on trail.
The St. Paul Pass Tunnel
The Milwaukee Road faced the daunting task of drilling a tunnel 23 feet high, 16 feet wide and 1.7 miles long into Idaho. It was a damp, dark, dirty dig. After the approaches were prepared in 1906, and a faltering start in 1907, work began in earnest in 1908. East and west crews toiled around the clock in wet, miserable conditions, and at their best could tunnel 20 feet a day. A company official remembered that: “Men were hard to keep as the work was disagreeable and hard. Several large veins of water were encountered and at times the working conditions were almost unbearable.”
It took 750 men—400 tunneling inside, 200 outside removing the dirt and rock, and 150 running the dig’s power plant yards—two and a half years to complete. The steam-driven electric power plant set up four miles away in Taft, Montana powered both ends of the dig. Compressed air provided safe, smokeless power to the giant steam shovels that loaded the blasted, broken rock into electric rail cars for removal. Interpretive sign on trail.
Reprinted from The Ultimate Montana Atlas & Travel Encylopedia
Located just off I-90 on the Idaho / Montana border, The Route of the Hiawatha is a scenic section of abandoned rail-bed from the “Milwaukee Road” that the Taft Tunnel Preservation Society, Silver Country, and the U.S. Forest Service have turned into a world class non-motorized trail in the area around the Montana and Idaho Border. In fact, this stretch has been called one of the most breathtaking scenic stretches of railroad in the country. This adventurous 13 mile trail takes mountain bikers (and hikers) through 10 cavernous tunnels and over 7 sky high trestles. The first tunnel you pass through is the 1.8 mile long Taft Tunnel reopened in 2001. This tunnel burrows 1.66 miles under the Idaho-Montana border The trail is operated and maintained by the Taft Tunnel Preservation Society with fees collected from all users. A shuttle bus can transport you and your bike between trail heads.
Trail Fees - Adults; Children (3-13)
Day Use: $7.00; $3.00
Season Pass: $25.00; $20.00
Shuttle Bus: $9.00; $6.00 (one way)
Helmets: (required) $6.00
Lights: $4.00
Helmet & Lights: $9.00
Bike Rentals: $22 & $26 (comfort suspension)
$16 for child’s bikes & trailers
Rentals are located at Lookout Pass Ski Area.
Shuttle Service
Weekday shuttle service: 11 A.M. to 4:15 P.M.
Weekend shuttle service: 11 A.M. to 5:45 P.M.
Weekends only after Sept 4: 12:00 P.M. to 5:15 P.M.
Children under 14 years of age require adult supervision. Helmets & lights required. No dogs or pets allowed.
The Hiawatha shuttle will run between the top and bottom of the trail throughout the days scheduled. Tickets, rentals and guided tours: Call 208-744-1301. www.skilookout.com/bike_home_page.html
Getting There: Take the Taft Exit (5) and turn south. Following the signs to the parking area. Representatives will meet you there to sell you permit and shuttle service.
The Route of the Hiawatha
In 1905, The Milwaukee and St. Paul Railway began looking for a route for their western extension over the Bitterroot Mountains. After five and a half months, exploring 930 miles, the railroad chose a route over St. Paul Pass. In laying out the route from the St. Paul Pass Tunnel the surveyors planned a line descending at a 1.7% gradient along the mountain slope. A big
consideration in choosing this route was the potential for future traffic. This route down the St. Joe River offered exclusive access to huge quantities of old growth white pine and cedar timber. Interpretive sign on trail.
The Last Transcontinental Railroad
The Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Railway’s Pacific Extension survived for 71 colorful years. Racing silk trains sped along the route, and long, rumbling troop trains carried men and materiel through four wars. The Milwaukee’s famed electric locomotives hosted presidents and celebrities and showcased the streamlined Olympian Hiawatha passenger train. The Route of the Hiawatha Rail-Trail, traces the most costly and difficult to build section of the railroad from Chicago to Tacoma. Today, thousands enjoy traveling over this scenic, historic trail helping keep alive the spirit of the Milwaukee Road.
The trail follows the trains and historians trace the history along the trail. When the Milwaukee Road abandoned its route over the Bitterroot Mountains, salvage companies striped the line of all the rails, ties, signals posts and everything else of value. The small fragments left behind are the remains of one of America’s proudest railroads. From 1907 to 1911 thousands of people lived, worked and played in this secluded part of the Bitterroot Mountains. They constructed a railroad while leaving faint signs of their own passing. Today you may see archaeologists digging and sifting along the Route of the Hiawatha Trail looking for clues about people and places not found in written documents. Historical research and archaeological field work helps breate life into the history of the Milwaukee Road years. Interpretive sign on trail.
The St. Paul Pass Tunnel
The Milwaukee Road faced the daunting task of drilling a tunnel 23 feet high, 16 feet wide and 1.7 miles long into Idaho. It was a damp, dark, dirty dig. After the approaches were prepared in 1906, and a faltering start in 1907, work began in earnest in 1908. East and west crews toiled around the clock in wet, miserable conditions, and at their best could tunnel 20 feet a day. A company official remembered that: “Men were hard to keep as the work was disagreeable and hard. Several large veins of water were encountered and at times the working conditions were almost unbearable.”
It took 750 men—400 tunneling inside, 200 outside removing the dirt and rock, and 150 running the dig’s power plant yards—two and a half years to complete. The steam-driven electric power plant set up four miles away in Taft, Montana powered both ends of the dig. Compressed air provided safe, smokeless power to the giant steam shovels that loaded the blasted, broken rock into electric rail cars for removal. Interpretive sign on trail.
Reprinted from The Ultimate Montana Atlas & Travel Encylopedia
Monday, July 18, 2005
Montana’s Favorite State Park: Canyon Ferry Lake
Located on Hwy.12/287 between Helena and Townsend
As Montana’s most popular state park, Canyon Ferry Lake offers over 76 miles of shoreline notched with quiet coves perfect for swimming, fishing, and picnics. The lake has 25 recreation and camping areas with boat ramps in many of them. It is one of the most popular lakes in the state for water skiing and sailing. It is also a popular area for watching the migration of eagles in November and December.
The lake encompasses a total of 35,000 acres and is 160 feet deep at the north end. The lake covers an area Lewis and Clark described as a beautiful 10 or 12 miles wide and extending as far upriver as the eye could see.
Today, the lake is surrounded by a rich agricultural area. The cottonwood studded valley is one of growing hay, grain, sugar beets, seed potatoes and
cattle.
The name “Canyon Ferry” originated when John Oakes started ferrying miners and prospectors across the Missouri River Canyon in 1865.
Reprinted from The Ultimate Montana Travel Atlas & Encylopedia
As Montana’s most popular state park, Canyon Ferry Lake offers over 76 miles of shoreline notched with quiet coves perfect for swimming, fishing, and picnics. The lake has 25 recreation and camping areas with boat ramps in many of them. It is one of the most popular lakes in the state for water skiing and sailing. It is also a popular area for watching the migration of eagles in November and December.
The lake encompasses a total of 35,000 acres and is 160 feet deep at the north end. The lake covers an area Lewis and Clark described as a beautiful 10 or 12 miles wide and extending as far upriver as the eye could see.
Today, the lake is surrounded by a rich agricultural area. The cottonwood studded valley is one of growing hay, grain, sugar beets, seed potatoes and
cattle.
The name “Canyon Ferry” originated when John Oakes started ferrying miners and prospectors across the Missouri River Canyon in 1865.
Reprinted from The Ultimate Montana Travel Atlas & Encylopedia
Friday, July 15, 2005
Gates of the Mountains Boat Tours
Hwy 15, north of Great Falls. 458-5241
This spectacular boat cruise along a stretch of the Missouri has been in operation for over 100 years. It retraces the areas traveled by Lewis and Clark in 1805 beginning at the Upper Holter Lake and passing through the incredible limestone cliffs where many forms of wildlife are commonly spotted. You’ll see many birds, bighorn sheep, mountain goats, and possibly even a black bear or mountain lion.
Meriwether Lewis named this stretch of the Missouri River. The sheer limestone cliffs appear to open or close as you approach or depart the
canyon. Lewis wrote “The rocks approached the river on both sides, forming a most sublime and extraordinary spectacle. Nothing can be imagined more tremendous than the frowning darkness of these rocks, which project over the river and menace us with destruction. This extraordinary range of rocks we called the Gates of the Rocky Mountains.”
In 1886, Nicholas Hilger began giving boat tours of the area. Today there are three open-air river boats that provide tours of the canyon. The 105 minute cruise begins at the marina three miles off of Exit 209 on I-15 just north of Helena. The cruise through here appears just as it did when first seen by Lewis and Clark. The cliffs are so shear here that there are very
few places to beach a boat. One of the few places is the Meriwether Picnic Area, named after the explorers it is believed camped here. The tour boat does stop here for a break. If you wish, you can take a hike up to Mann Gulch where 13 smokejumpers died in a raging forest fire in 1949. The tour boat operator will pull in close to the walls to observe Indian pictographs. There is a good chance that you will also see mountain goats along the rugged walls.
Reprinted from The Ultimate Montana Atlas & Travel Encyclopedia
This spectacular boat cruise along a stretch of the Missouri has been in operation for over 100 years. It retraces the areas traveled by Lewis and Clark in 1805 beginning at the Upper Holter Lake and passing through the incredible limestone cliffs where many forms of wildlife are commonly spotted. You’ll see many birds, bighorn sheep, mountain goats, and possibly even a black bear or mountain lion.
Meriwether Lewis named this stretch of the Missouri River. The sheer limestone cliffs appear to open or close as you approach or depart the
canyon. Lewis wrote “The rocks approached the river on both sides, forming a most sublime and extraordinary spectacle. Nothing can be imagined more tremendous than the frowning darkness of these rocks, which project over the river and menace us with destruction. This extraordinary range of rocks we called the Gates of the Rocky Mountains.”
In 1886, Nicholas Hilger began giving boat tours of the area. Today there are three open-air river boats that provide tours of the canyon. The 105 minute cruise begins at the marina three miles off of Exit 209 on I-15 just north of Helena. The cruise through here appears just as it did when first seen by Lewis and Clark. The cliffs are so shear here that there are very
few places to beach a boat. One of the few places is the Meriwether Picnic Area, named after the explorers it is believed camped here. The tour boat does stop here for a break. If you wish, you can take a hike up to Mann Gulch where 13 smokejumpers died in a raging forest fire in 1949. The tour boat operator will pull in close to the walls to observe Indian pictographs. There is a good chance that you will also see mountain goats along the rugged walls.
Reprinted from The Ultimate Montana Atlas & Travel Encyclopedia
Sunday, July 10, 2005
Photographing Yellowstone
Photography has always played an important role in Yellowstone’s history.
To help prove that the natural oddities described by mountain men and explorers did indeed exist, Ferdinand Hayden hired William Henry Jackson to produce photographs of the scenery, waterfalls, canyons, and thermal features viewed by the Hayden Expedition of 1871. Jackson used two cameras, and a bulky, time-consuming method of photography known as the wet plate process. One camera measured 6-1/2 inches by 8-1/2 inches, and the other was 8 inches by 10 inches. Due to slow shutter speeds of 5 to 15 seconds, the camera needed to be held steady by a heavy tripod. Just prior to taking a photograph, Jackson would prepare a light-sensitive emulsion layer to coat a piece of glass the same size as the camera. After exposing the glass plate negative, Jackson would immediately develop the negative in his darkroom tent before the emulsion layer dried. The average time to make a single photograph was 45 minutes.
Jackson carried hundreds of pounds of fragile glass plates, chemicals and solutions, cameras and tripod on pack mules. He would frequently take his equipment to some very difficult and sometimes precarious locations to get just the view he wanted.
The photographs taken by Jackson in 1871 were instrumental in persuading Congress to establish Yellowstone as the world’s first national park in 1872. Frank J. Haynes was another important photographer in the early days of the park, first journeying here in 1881. Haynes recognized the unique beauty of Yellowstone and realized that this first look would lead to some significant changes in his own career and life. Haynes was the official photographer for Yellowstone National Park from 1884-1916. By 1897, Haynes had two photo studios in Yellowstone. The first was located in the Upper Geyser Basin, and the second at Mammoth Hot Springs. The Haynes studios sold black and white photographs, and hand-tinted postcards and stereocards to park visitors.
One of Haynes’ most important accomplishments was documenting the early development of Yellowstone Park to accommodate increasing numbers of visitors. Haynes photographed park roads and bridges, stagecoaches, steamships on Yellowstone Lake, train stations in Gardiner and West Yellowstone, hotels, lodges, campgrounds, and visitors. Haynes also photographed the natural beauty of Yellowstone. Some of these photographs are of particular importance as they show thermal features displaying activity that differs from today.
Photography still plays an important role today in Yellowstone. Even though nearly every visitor today has a still or video camera, there remains the importance of recording today’s cultural, natural and historical features, documenting gradual changes, and events of significant importance such as the restoration of the wolf.
Reprinted from “The Ultimate Montana Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia”
To help prove that the natural oddities described by mountain men and explorers did indeed exist, Ferdinand Hayden hired William Henry Jackson to produce photographs of the scenery, waterfalls, canyons, and thermal features viewed by the Hayden Expedition of 1871. Jackson used two cameras, and a bulky, time-consuming method of photography known as the wet plate process. One camera measured 6-1/2 inches by 8-1/2 inches, and the other was 8 inches by 10 inches. Due to slow shutter speeds of 5 to 15 seconds, the camera needed to be held steady by a heavy tripod. Just prior to taking a photograph, Jackson would prepare a light-sensitive emulsion layer to coat a piece of glass the same size as the camera. After exposing the glass plate negative, Jackson would immediately develop the negative in his darkroom tent before the emulsion layer dried. The average time to make a single photograph was 45 minutes.
Jackson carried hundreds of pounds of fragile glass plates, chemicals and solutions, cameras and tripod on pack mules. He would frequently take his equipment to some very difficult and sometimes precarious locations to get just the view he wanted.
The photographs taken by Jackson in 1871 were instrumental in persuading Congress to establish Yellowstone as the world’s first national park in 1872. Frank J. Haynes was another important photographer in the early days of the park, first journeying here in 1881. Haynes recognized the unique beauty of Yellowstone and realized that this first look would lead to some significant changes in his own career and life. Haynes was the official photographer for Yellowstone National Park from 1884-1916. By 1897, Haynes had two photo studios in Yellowstone. The first was located in the Upper Geyser Basin, and the second at Mammoth Hot Springs. The Haynes studios sold black and white photographs, and hand-tinted postcards and stereocards to park visitors.
One of Haynes’ most important accomplishments was documenting the early development of Yellowstone Park to accommodate increasing numbers of visitors. Haynes photographed park roads and bridges, stagecoaches, steamships on Yellowstone Lake, train stations in Gardiner and West Yellowstone, hotels, lodges, campgrounds, and visitors. Haynes also photographed the natural beauty of Yellowstone. Some of these photographs are of particular importance as they show thermal features displaying activity that differs from today.
Photography still plays an important role today in Yellowstone. Even though nearly every visitor today has a still or video camera, there remains the importance of recording today’s cultural, natural and historical features, documenting gradual changes, and events of significant importance such as the restoration of the wolf.
Reprinted from “The Ultimate Montana Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia”
Thursday, July 07, 2005
Paradise Valley Scenic Drive
Paradise Valley has been carved by the Yellowstone River running through the land, separating the Gallatin Range to the west and the Absaroka Range to the east. Leading from Livingston to the Gardiner entrance to Yellowstone National Park, the valley offers a spectacular landscape and great fly fishing and recreational activities. The Crow Indians inhabited this area along the river for many years before the white man settled here. Today, celebrities such as Dennis Quaid, Peter Fonda, and others call it home much of the year.
After miners struck gold in Emigrant Gulch in 1862, a few small mining towns sprouted up along the valley, including Old Chico and Yellowstone City. By the late 1800s, coal mines exceeded gold mines, and much was extracted from this area. Nowadays, ranching dominates the valley’s economic activity.
Reprinted from “The Ultimate Montana Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia”
After miners struck gold in Emigrant Gulch in 1862, a few small mining towns sprouted up along the valley, including Old Chico and Yellowstone City. By the late 1800s, coal mines exceeded gold mines, and much was extracted from this area. Nowadays, ranching dominates the valley’s economic activity.
Reprinted from “The Ultimate Montana Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia”
Sunday, July 03, 2005
Montana's Favorite State Park: Canyon Ferry Lake
Located on Hwy. 12/287 between Helena and Townsend
As Montana’s most popular state park, Canyon Ferry Lake offers over 76 miles of shoreline notched with quiet coves perfect for swimming, fishing, and picnics. The lake has 25 recreation and camping areas with boat ramps in many of them. It is one of the most popular lakes in the state for water skiing and sailing. It is also a popular area for watching the migration of eagles in November and December.
The lake encompasses a total of 35,000 acres and is 160 feet deep at the north end. The lake covers an area Lewis and Clark described as a beautiful 10 or 12 miles wide and extending as far upriver as the eye could see. Today, the lake is surrounded by a rich agricultural area. The cottonwood studded valley is one of growing hay, grain, sugar beets, seed potatoes and cattle.
The name “Canyon Ferry” originated when John Oakes started ferrying miners and prospectors across the Missouri River Canyon in 1865.
Reprinted from The Ultimate Montana Travel Atlas & Encylopedia
As Montana’s most popular state park, Canyon Ferry Lake offers over 76 miles of shoreline notched with quiet coves perfect for swimming, fishing, and picnics. The lake has 25 recreation and camping areas with boat ramps in many of them. It is one of the most popular lakes in the state for water skiing and sailing. It is also a popular area for watching the migration of eagles in November and December.
The lake encompasses a total of 35,000 acres and is 160 feet deep at the north end. The lake covers an area Lewis and Clark described as a beautiful 10 or 12 miles wide and extending as far upriver as the eye could see. Today, the lake is surrounded by a rich agricultural area. The cottonwood studded valley is one of growing hay, grain, sugar beets, seed potatoes and cattle.
The name “Canyon Ferry” originated when John Oakes started ferrying miners and prospectors across the Missouri River Canyon in 1865.
Reprinted from The Ultimate Montana Travel Atlas & Encylopedia
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